Rinjani Heaven on Earth

Text and Photos by Wiwi Soemarsono

Shortly before 2 PM, my Garuda Indonesia flight landed smoothly at Selaparang Airport.

Though the sun blazed down, the hills surrounding the airport were a cool green beneath a stunningly blue sky.

After collecting my baggage, I rushed out to my rental car, which then took me to Sembalun. The car had to stop several times on the way for processions of local people in colorful traditional clothing. Our driver, Pak Wiwid, told us that this was the Nyongkolan ceremony, part of the traditional wedding process in Lombok when the bridegroom's family visits the bride's family. Nyongkolan is usually done after the wedding ceremony itself. These large entourages filled the road, accompanied by a gamelan called Gendang Baleq (baleq = large).

I arrived at the Sembalun Guard Post right before the sunset call to prayer. After dinner and a short rest, I agreed to a night trek. Our target was to camp at Post 1 and continue the journey the next day.

Opening my tent at nearly 6 the next morning, I was astonished. Dazzling brightness assaulted my eyes; the sky was so blue; off in the distance, shreds of cloud imitated an ocean – truly entrancing.

The trek from Kali Mati to Post 1 took us nearly two hours. The sparse grassy meadows along the route allowed the sun's rays to lick at every inch of our skin. It was hot, all right. On the trail between meadows, we encountered several groups going up or down. The sun seemed to bake our scalps. Meadows, blazing sun, no wind.

I swallowed my saliva. Mount Rinjani rose challengingly above us, calling us to quickly approach. So close, yet so far to reach.

After a two-hour hike, we arrived at Post 2 and rested while waiting for lunch.

Rinjani

After lunch, we continued our hike. We crossed a two-meter-long bamboo bridge; below us on the right was a charred-looking valley – a lahar flow. We could see several hikers resting there, some cooking, others lolling about and chatting. Faces wilting from the heat passed by; smiles and hellos from hikers just coming down from the summit steeled our resolve. As we hiked toward Post 3, a foreign woman with a big smile stumbled past us with an encouraging comment, "Good luck, you'll need lots of 'em".

It was nearly noon when I arrived at Post 3, to be greeted by several fearless apes who seemed very accustomed to humans. It was uphill from Post 3 to Plawangan. The meadows that had escorted us from Post 1 to Post 3 ended here; now the vegetation was mostly tall pines. The higher we climbed, the vaster the view – Gunung Tambora in the distance, below a clear blue sky with white clouds billowing like embroidery on a young girl's blouse.

This hike was really exhausting. I stopped often to stretch my legs and take deeper breaths. Half disheartened, I gazed upward, toward Plawangan. A dry August had left a thick layer of dust us on this, the Hill of Regret, and now I knew why they called it that.

It was nearly 5 when I arrived at Plawangan to share the view with the dozens of hikers who had arrived before me. Lake Segara Anak hypnotized me with its beauty. To our left and right were gaping gorges ready to swallow us up if we took a misstep.

The sun dimmed. The sky was a deep blue canvas painted with the colors of the rainbow – red, purple, yellow, orange.


As planned, I rested for two days before tackling Rinjani. Segara Anak was the view in my front yard. The cloudless blue sky allowed the eyes to wander unimpeded. The peak of Gunung Agung rose up in clear view, bounded by the forest of Senaru. Behind that, Gunung Tambora spouted white clouds. Time seemed to stand still here; everything was so peaceful.
Before dawn on the second day, I arose at 3 and got ready to start the hike, shivering and chilled to the bone.

We walked single file. The mask covering my mouth was in adequate to keep the dust out. It was my first time doing a pre-dawn hike like this. And then the sun came gradually out, with its golden glow – indescribable.

The sun climbed higher, the wind picked up, the air was cool enough to defeat the blazing sun, and I got more and more out of breath. At 8, one by one, other hikers were coming back down. I had almost given up, when the five last hikers coming down Rinjani clapped their hands to encourage me. Tears choked my throat.

Only another 300 meters. Do I have to give up now? My legs are reluctant to continue. Gravel, chunks of stone, everything seems to be resisting my wish to keep going. One step up, slip back three. Frustrating. At 9 in the morning, after four hours of hiking, we finally reach the summit of Rinjani. I can't contain my tears. God is So Great. At 3726 meters above sea level, I am awed by the beauty, the glory, the wonder. I prostrate myself in prayer, truly grateful for the opportunity given to me to enjoy all this.

At 3726 meters, it feels like we're in the clouds. As far the eye can see, nothing but perfect calm. No one else is here at the summit. A fierce wind deafens our ears and chills our bodies; the sun can bring forth no sweat. I am speechless. Far over there, we see Gunung Agung boldly towering. For me, this is heaven.

Posted in: Adventure, Destinations