Bintan A Paradise in Its Own Right

A visit to Bintan offers you an insight into its illustrious past as well as its promising future in the realm of tourism.

Bintan, an island in the Riau Islands province, has a beautiful coastline that runs about 100 kilometers, most of which comprises pristine white sandy beaches.

Located a 30-minute ferry ride from Batam or 45 minutes away from Singapore by a high-speed catamaran, Bintan is the largest of no less than 3,200 islands in the Riau archipelago.

It is often described as a unique paradise, where life is simple and its multicultural population of some 200.000 people – mostly Javanese, Buginese and Chinese – are friendly and live in harmony.

Bintan was initially part of the Riau Province, but to accommodate post-reform separatist sentiments the government and the House of Representatives agreed to spin off Riau Islands as a separate province in July 2004 with Tanjung Pinang as its capital.

In visiting Bintan, most holidaymakers and pleasure-seekers head straight to Bintan Resort where life seldom moves beyond sitting by swimming pools sipping gin tonics at luxury hotels, snorkeling, fishing, canoeing and wind surfing. Its all-year round sunny weather allows for upscale activities such as golfing, jet-skiing, sailing, diving and island hopping.
Most tourism activities are concentrated on the north coast around Lagoi, while the east coast is still unspoiled and worth a visit.

To those with a passion for facts and figures: there are seven international hotels, four resorts and three international golf courses with 36 holes in Bintan Resort, covering 23,000 hectares, designed by Gary Player, Jack Nicklaus and Greg Norman.

Comparisons to Bali’s tourist enclave Nusa Dua is inevitable but this is hardly an-apple-to-apple exercise. While the resort island is by all measures unique and distinctive to the point of being in a class of its own, Bintan has sufficient drawing power to attract large numbers of tourists from Europe, Japan and South Korea (and, of course, Singapore) and foreign companies to hold their annual meetings.

Local tourist guidebooks trace Bintan back to the 13th century, when the island was a part of the magnificent Sriwijaya Empire of what is now South Sumatra.

As historical data show, Sri Tri Buana, a member of the royal family of Palembang, visited Riau Islands in 1290 and joined forces with the island’s ruler to take over Bintan and later became its king.

Since then Bintan has become a perennial battleground involving the Malacca and Johor sultanates, the Portuguese, the Buginese, the Acehnese and the Dutch because of its strategic location as a port and trade center in the region.

But when the British in 1819 discovered and developed Singapore to became a regional trading center, Bintan’s stature diminished enormously. The island experienced a permanent reversal of political and trading fortune and today remains overshadowed by neighboring Batam and Singapore.

“In the 1980s, the leaders of Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore initiated the Sijori (Singapore, Johor and Indonesia) Growth Triangle and signed agreements to invest in Bintan and Batam, the latter once a deserted island that was turned into a special bonded zone,” says, Abdul Waahab, the Singaporean general manager of Nirwana Gardens. (See also Travel Notes.)

Singapore also signed a special agreement with Indonesia to lease its northern coast and develop it into a resort called Bintan Resort. The powerful Salim Group was then brought in to join forces with Singapore’s equally powerful business group, Sembawang, to develop the area.

It now features excellent infrastructure and is home to such luxury and exclusive entities such as Nirwana Gardens, Club Mediteranee, Bintan Lagoon and Banyan Tree.
Says Wahab: “About 5000 people are employed in this resort.”

At one time Bintan saw huge investments coming their way, including industrial parks that many Japanese and American companies use as their manufacturing base.

For some reasons, not the least the global economic crisis, that lustre has slightly worn off. But that has not prevented Bintan to remain as a popular tourist destination with its own brand of allure.

Places of Interest in Bintan

1. Tanjung Pinang
   The main and busy port town, where trader and passenger ships link all parts of Indonesia with Singapore. In many ways, the city reminds us of Bogor in West Java some 20 years ago, as it transforms itself from a quaint and rustic place into a city teeming with ATMs and internet kiosks.
2. Tanjung Uban
   The second largest town after Tanjung Pinang, on the north western coast of Bintan Island. Along the seaside is a charming boardwalk called “Pelantar” with houses, accommodations and restaurants built above the sea, where you can
   buy art works and handicrafts.
3. Senggarang Island
   Visit the over 300 years old banyan tree temple.
   Another temple is also on hand, Xuan Tian Shang-di, named after a Chinese ruler.
4. Penyengat Island
   15 Minutes away away from Tanjung Pinang by motor-powered sampan boat.
   Spend some time at a 200-year-old well-maintained grand mosque of the Sultan of Riau, an old palace and royal tombs, and a typical Riau traditional house.
5. Pantai Trikora
   A beach on the east coast where the sand is white and the water clean, a great place for relaxation. Visit also a nearby fishing village and a small traditional boat building facility.
   

What to do in Bintan

1. Mountain Biking
   The quiet, hilly and well-maintained roads of Bintan are ideal for biking.
2. Bintan Elephant Park
   Seven Sumatran elephants beckon you to an interactive adventure by offering you a ride into the forest.
3. Gunung Bintan Adventure Trek
   The 340-meter high mountain of Gunung Bintan offers visitors breathtaking panoramic views from the summit.
   Bintan’s rainforest features giant trees and rare animals.
4. Mangrove Discovery Tour
   The beauty and mystique of Bintan’s flora and fauna.

Getting There

You can reach Bintan from Batam Island, Singapore or Malaysia (Johor Baru) by scheduled ferries. Bintan has a small airport in Kijang serving domestic flights to and from Jakarta.

Garuda Indonesia flies daily to Batam, 21 times per week.

Source : garudamagazine

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Ujung Genteng Beach- A never - Ending Andventure

The Adventure Begins

Although the clock said it was still only 4 am, I couldn’t keep my eyes shut. I was too excited about starting my journey along Ujung Genteng beach later that morning. The first test came a moment later as thunderbolts roared and the drenching rain poured down without restraint.

Our basecamp and starting point was Ujung Genteng Beach, where there are a lot of places to stay - mostly cheap guesthouses and villas. The Warung (small shops or stalls) were our last chance to stock up on supplies because after setting off from this place there would be no other warung or villages along our planned route. There would be nothing but beaches, forests and hills. Our aim was to pitch our tent in Batu Keris Beach, about 30 kms away. And the next morning we were to return via a different route, shorter at about 17 kilometres, through the forests lying behind the beach.

“We can’t wait any longer. We have to start now,” said Petrus, our team leader.

At 8 o’clock on the dot, wearing our raincoats, we started trudging along the beach.

Conditions underfoot were firm because of all the rain and this helped keep my feet from sinking into soft sand. Remember, I had a 15 kilogramme rucksack on my back.

The going got heavier as we made our way along Cipanarikan Beach. The weather became hot all of a sudden and the drying sand turned soft and sucked at our feet. Each step was really heavy! Fortunately the view was lovely with the calm, bluish water and the wide, white beach. We stopped for a short rest here.

After we’d had our picnic lunch, the weather grew hotter. This meant I had to get ready for the next, more difficult challenge. Firstly, despite the high temperatures on the beach, I had to go easy on our already limited reserves of water. Secondly, Petrus already warned us that along the next section of the beach it would be very difficult to find any shade. Thirdly, the hot weather would make the sand dry and soft. This meant that the walking would be heavy going.

The Challenge of Karang Taraje
For more than two hours we braved the heat and the laden strides before we finally came to a rocky beach. The ground was more solid here so it was easier traverse. We walked quite a long way under the hot sun above that southern shore before we eventually arrived at cliffs with forests behind them. The rocks were quite tall and jagged. It was just like Skull Island in the movie King Kong. This was Karang Taraje Beach.

There was no other way to go except walking along the foot of cliff next to the crashing waves. For a moment, with the rocks so slippery and sharp, I wasn’t sure I was all that keen on taking this route. If I were to lose my footing, it would be catastrophic! Petrus told us that Karang Taraje in the local language meant “rock stairs”. Perhaps this was because the rocks here were tiered just like a flight of stairs.

All along Karang Taraje Beach I saw only rocks and not one bit of sand. Indeed, this beach is not suitable for swimming. Our path came to an end at an even bigger cliff than the first one. I had to cross a crevice using only two bamboo poles. With the help of several seasoned mountain climber friends I crawled up the side of the cliff. The sound of the dashing breakers below as I scrambled up the four metre tall cliff was a terrifying combination.

I needed to be patient here because we had to tackle the difficult route one by one. Behind the cliff I was relieved to see a plateau of rock that was quite wide and flat. From here I could see the shoreline of Karang Taraje. Although seemingly unfriedly, Karang Taraje beach was a captivating blend of the beauty and ferocity with its commanding cliffs lapped by the boisterous breaking waves.

Once past the shoreline at “Skull Island”, the beach became sandy again. And once again our feet began to sink. We took frequent breathers because of our heavy packs and the stinging sun. At one point the group was split but we didn’t let ourselves get too far apart.

Getting Harder
The journey was getting harder because it turned out that we couldn’t keep up with the schedule we’d set ourselves. The day was getting on and we still had a long way to go and knowing that made me feel even more tired. It was true, I didn’t have to climb cliffs again but the flat route with soft sand and the sun beaming down was all a big challenge for me. We were exhausted and dehydrated.

We continued walking and rested often before finally reaching Ombak Tujuh Beach. The curve of this beach was also quite long, stretching almost 4 kilometres. There were no sharp rocks here. What I could see was only the horizon in the distance and the rolling waves that tumbled onto the edge of the beach. There were huge waves that allegedly could split into seven, or so they say, and this is how the beach got its name.

The journey following this stretch of coast seemed never-ending. I felt like I was walking across an endless desert. I felt like Brooke Shield in the film Sahara. Sweltering and relentless. The porter who was helping us to carry our food continued to comfort me by saying, “We are almost there, Sir, just one more turn.” As far as I could remember, those were his exact words almost two hours beforehand.

We often encountered waterways that we had to wade across. Their depths varied, some thigh high, others came right up to our tummies. What was clear was that to cross these waterways I had no choice but to hold my backpack up high with one hand.

Walking past bend after bend on the beach, there seemed no clear sign that we would arrive at Batu Keris soon. We had walked for eight hours and there still seemed no end to it. As we approached Batu Keris Beach, we turned right into the forest behind the beach.

The forest here was dense and almost untouched. The road started to climb slopes and then descend again. Several times we came across small stretches of beach and then plunged back into the forest again. After more of this up and down trekking, we finally arrived on a pretty big beach below a cliff. I thought that this was where we were going to make our camp. It turned out that Batu Keris Beach was still way off in the far distance. I could see my friends who were ahead of us. Our destination was still very far away.

Arriving at Batu Keris
Again we walked through small forests and for the umpteenth time we had to cross an estuary this time using using the two bamboo poles. Afterwards, we walked along a beach with wooded hills up on our right. After turning one more time, I was finally able to breathe a sigh of relief. We had arrived at Batu Keris Beach.

The beach was quite big and several parts of it had some coral. Just behind the beach there was a hill covered with relatively thick forest. On our right there was a cliff standing 10 metres tall.

The sunset was obscured by clouds that evening but just enjoying the crashing waves and the rustling of the wind was refreshing enough. The forest and the hills behind us made our camp really seem like it was completely isolated. There were no other signs of anyone else around except for us.

“The nearest village is 10 kilometres from here,” explained Petrus.

After savouring dinner to the accompaniment of the splashing of the sea and the chattering crickets, I immediately slipped into a deep slumber. Both my legs felt sore from walking for nine hours along the sea’s edge while carrying that heavy pack. However, our challenge was far from over. At 3 o’clock in the middle of the night the rain lashed down on us and, with a strong wind buffeting too, my tent began to leak.

So, in the morning I had to take everything out of my backpack and dry it in the open. The rainbow that appeared near our camp made the view even more beautiful. The waves were not so big and the spectacle of the rows of rough coral caught by the sun’s rays accentuated the ferocious side of Batu Keris Beach.

Although flat, and in places sandy, swimming here was not recommended. Coral reefs were scattered everywhere including close to the beach and further out to the sea too. Because it was almost untouched by visitors, I was able to enjoy this natural beauty. Moreover, as we were told, the nearest settlement was 10 kilometres away. One thing that was guaranteed at Batu Keris Beach: it was free of peddlers and hawkers!

The Adventure is (not) Over
We should have started our journey home at 7 am. However, because the supply team had been delayed by the torrential rain and unable to reach our camp in time, our journey back had to start without breakfast. At 9 am we hiked back into the forest behind the beach.

“The forest route is shorter than the beach route,” our porter said. The beach route was 30 kilometres while the forest route was only about 17 kilometres.

It turned out that the short route wasn’t all that much easier. The rain that had been falling mercilessly since dawn had turned the narrow track into treacherous mud which made walking a real hassle. At one point I even sunk calf deep in mud. In the end I decided to go barefoot.

The muddy, sloping track saw me slipping over and over again. Several times I had to endure the agony of stepping on thorns. It was a no win situation because putting the shoes back on made it more slippery and difficult to walk. Travelling through the forest turned out to present its own challenges. The trees here was not as dense as they were in the mountains but there was a lot of coarse, face high grass and the path was narrow and mucky.

Meanwhile, the weather continued to overheat us, making the journey in the forest just as scorching as it had been along the beach.

Unforeseen circumstances made this journey feel never-ending too. The failure of the supply team to get to our overnight campsite, the unexpected natural conditions in the forest and the extreme heat, had resulted in our water running out prematurely. When we had to cross another river by walking along a very slippery tree trunk, it was very hard for me to concentrate. Luckily my friends kept encouraging me.

Several kilometres from the first river, we had to wade across another one whose current was swifter. This time we didn’t have a tree trunk but had to go into the water. This was better than crossing on that tree trunk. Splash!! We all jumped into the river.

When we had finished enjoying the refreshing water of the river, some of us thought we could not go on walking because we had run out of drinking water and we still had 10 kilometres to go. In the end we asked our porter to find motorbike taxis in the nearest village.
A few minutes later, a whole gaggle of motorbike taxis turned up to take our weary bodies home. Travelling on a motorbike in this area was also a unique adventure. Going uphill and downhill on slithery roads, through forests and tall coarse grass and past plantations, was all an unforgettable experience. As we went went over one hill I happened to see a stretch of coconut plantation on a hilly area with the sea as the backdrop. Very beautiful!

By 3 pm we had arrived back at our starting point, Ujung Genteng Beach. While resting, we ate our lunch and kidded around. Our adventure was complete although in the end we hadn’t been able finish it on foot. However, apart from all that, we agreed that we had enjoyed a very different adventure, one that had taken us along beaches and through forests, and that had confronted us with various circumstances and weather that we won’t forget.

Getting there
It is not difficult to get to Ujung Genteng from Jakarta. If you take public transport, get on a bus bound for Bogor, then continue on another bus from Bogor to Surade. From Surade, take an angkot (minibus) to Ujung Genteng.

What to do
If you are crazy about mountain biking, Ujung Genteng’s trails are enticing enough to try out. Jungle & beach trekking: the long shoreline with different distinctive features and the forest with it tall coarse grass, hills and coconut groves, will turn your visit to Ujung Genteng into an unforgettable adventure.

When to go
April to October, during the dry season, is the best time to enjoy the charms
and challenges of Ujung Genteng.

Where to stay
At Ujung Genteng Beach, there are many villas and local residents’ houses for rent. The prices vary. One of the more well known ones is Pondok Hexa (021-7509271). Nature lovers may want to camp along the shoreline.

What to see
A turtle breeding facility in Ujung Genteng is one of the places tourists are most interested in. On certain days there is the release of baby turtles into open sea. Curug Cikaso, although not located near the beach, is part of Ujung Genteng area and is one of the most popular local tourist destinations.

source : garuda Magazine

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Pangandaran Beach

Pangandaran is a small town and a subdistrict in southern Ciamis regency, West Java, Indonesia. It is located on the southern coast of Java. Pangandaran is a popular tourist destination, having a beach which is considered to be one of the finest in Java and which offers excellent surfing.

A kite-flying festival is held on the beach in July and August. It is reported that the locals used to fly kites in the evenings to catch bats, and may still do so. There is a local belief that wearing any green garment in this area will anger Loro Kidul, the Javanese guardian spirit or goddess of the southern sea, and will bring misfortune.

The Penanjung Pangandaran nature reserve is nearby on a peninsula connected to the mainland by a narrow neck of land. About eighty percent of the nature reserve is secondary rainforest. The flora of the nature reserve includes the Rafflesia.

A tsunami hit the area on 17 July 2006. An undersea earthquake measured at 7.7 on the Richter scale triggered a three metre high tidal wave. Extensive damage was caused and hundreds of people were reported to be dead or missing

Pangandaran is a Tourist Location in West Java, Indonesia. Pangandaran is Family friendly and has also for individual Tourists much to offer. In the Bay Area Pananjung are two beautiful Beaches for swimming, surfing or just relaxing. Here you have much Activities and Adventures like Trekking, Snorkeling, Fishing and many more..

The National Park
On the southside From Pangandaran is a National Park mostly as Jungle. You can Walk there with a Guide to the beautiful Waterfalls and enjoy the flora and fauna. Or by a 1 day Trip around the Park

Batu Karas
Batu Karas is a little Village 1 hour away from Pangandaran. It's famous for Surfing there.

Batu Hiu
Batu Hiu is a Place between Pangandaran and Batu Karas. Batu Hiu means Shark's Rock wich is a coastal rock having the shape of a shark. It's nice for relaxing there or swimming at the Beach.

Green Canyon
The best Way to go to the Green Canyon is with a Guide or by Rent a Motorbyke. At a Boat Station are many Boats who drive to the Green Canyon. After 45 Minutes Boat drive over a nice River you are there. There is also the chance to swimming in the Green Canyon.

Getting Here
Pangandaran is locatet at the Southcoast from West Java, Indonesia in the District Ciamis. See the Descriptions above and the Map for further Information.

From Jakarta
A fast Way from Jakarta is by bus. The buses drive nearly every hour from Kampung Rambutan bus station toward Pangandaran. Most buses drive directly to Pangandaran. With some buses you have to change the bus in Ciamis or Banjar. The trip lasts around 7 hours and cost around Rp.50'000 without AC and around Rp.80'000 with AC. The fee depends on the bus company.

It's also possible to rent a Car with a Driver in Jakarta. This will cost around Rp.1'500'000.

From Bandung
With the bus you reach Pangandaran on the bus station Cicaheum. Some buses drive directly to Pangandaran. With some buses you have to change the bus in Ciamis or Banjar. It's recommendable to take a bus who drive direct to Pangandaran. The buses from Banjar are small and mostly overcrowded.

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Maluku, the beautiful archipelago from east of Indonesia

Maluku (Moluccas), a region of Indonesia formerly known as the Spice Islands, was once the source of cloves and nutmeg, spices highly valued for their aroma, preservative ability, and use in medicine before people learned how to cultivate the plants in other parts of the world. Maluku is a cluster of about one thousand islands totaling 74,504 square kilometers, forming part of the Malay Archipelago in eastern Indonesia near New Guinea. The region is divided into two provinces, Maluku with its capital in Ambon, and North Maluku (2002 estimated population 913,000), with its capital in Ternate; other important islands in the group include Halmahera, Seram, and Buru.

Its approximately 1000 islands support a population of less than 1.7 million people. The average population density figure is 19 people per-square kilometer, but the distribution is uneven. Air and sea transportation is the main means, which link the islands together. The province has 32 seaports and 20 airports, and only about 160 km of roads. However, good roads on many of the islands provide easy access to the often-remote places of tourists' interest.
Maluku lies in the transition zone between Asiatic and Australian flora and fauna and has a tropical climate. Maluku's flora includes meranti trees and many kinds of orchids; distinctive fauna includes cuscuses, birds of paradise, wild goats, and parrots. The economy is based on subsistence agriculture, especially sago (the sago palm, producing a starch used in food), and on the export of such products as spices, cacao, coffee, coconuts, fish, and minerals. Important indigenous groups include the Ambonese.

A great variety of endemic plant and animal species are found in the rugged forest-covered and mountainous hinterlands of most of the islands. A few of the best known are the Rucker-tailed kingfisher, the red-crested Moluccan cockatoo, and various brilliantly colored lorikeets and parrots. Most of Maluku sits astride one of the world's most volatile volcanic belts.

GEOGRAPHICALLY
Maluku province with its capital Ambon, stay at 30 north latitudes 8,300 south latitudes and 1250 - 1350 east longitudes with the area boundaries:
North side: North Maluku Province
South side: Timor Leste and Australia
West Side: Southeast Sulawesi and Central Sulawesi
East Side: Irian Jaya Province

THE WIDE AREA
The wide area of Maluku province is 712.479,69 km_, with the land wide is 54.185km_ and sea wide is 658.294,69km_.
The Maluku Province plain is 85.728 km2 width or 8.572.800 Ha contain of 3 part that is:
- Flat Land: 1.251.630 Ha width (14,6%)
- Wavy Land: 2.417.530 Ha width (28,2%)
- Hilly and Mountainous Land: 4.903.640 Ha width (57,2%)
Almost, Maluku has no upland. The mountain is a back that spread in the middle of the island, forming the mountain with the highest of 3.055 m.

TOPOGRAPHY
Maluku province consists of mountains, islands that spread from west to east and form north to south among 1150 km.

GOVERNMENT ADMINISTRATION AREA
Administratively, Maluku Province divided into four regencies and one city that is:
1. Central Maluku regency with 15 districts, 296 villages and 6 sub-districts.
2. Southeast Maluku regency with 8 districts, 229 villages and 6 sub-districts.
3. West-Southeast Maluku regency with 5 districts, 187 villages and 1 sub-district.
4. Buru regency with 3 districts, 62 villages.
5. Ambon city with 3 districts, 30 villages and 20 sub-districts.

CLIMATE
Maluku has 2 seasons, that is: west season or north, and southeast or east. West season in Maluku is come from December until March, while April is transition season to southeast season. Southeast season is average 6 months begin from May and end on October. The transition to West season is on November.
The homogenate seasons are give different affect to the land and its sea in this region. The temperature is about 26,2 C (in Southeast Maluku especially in rainy).

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Wonderful Nias Island

Nias Island lies about 125 km of west Sumatra Island on the Indian Ocean. It is part of North Sumatra Province. The water surround the island is great for sea activities, such as surfing and scuba diving. The people also have curious culture, which will enrich visitor's heart. The island has some prehistoric remains, which built on megalithic Stone Age, and considered came from the oldest megalithic culture in Indonesia.

The local call their land as Tano Niha or "land of the People", while the people calls them selves as Ono Noha. Ethnically, the Niasers are involved in to the Ptoto-Malay ethnic who once ever get with the Asian Proto-mongoloid world. Niasers speak a kind of language related to Malagasy. Because of the similarity in languages, custom, body size of the Niasers with the Bataks on Sumatra mainland, it is possible that the Niasers have derived from the Bataks.
Surfers will call this island "Paradise on Earth". Together with its beautiful white sandy beach, Lagundri Bay challenge surfers with spectacular waves. In the high season, the waves told to be as high as 3.5 meters. The waves of Sorake Beach on Lagundri Bay have ranked to be within the best ten waves of the world. It is true if some surfers referred of Sorake Beach waves as "the most notorious right-band reef breaks". There are events held for surfers, including the World Professionals Qualifying Series. Surfers are better being ready when your heart cannot leave this island after a visit.

Enormous breakers pummel of Nias Island attracting the best surfers in the world to Lagundri Beach. The unforgiving power attacking the shore seems to have bred the same qualities in the people, whose militaristic culture has fascinated anthropologists for decades. This island lies off West Sumatra in the Indian Ocean. Bawomataluo and Hilisimae villages are curious places to visit, where visitors can see performances of traditional war dances and thrilling high- jump sports, i.e. people making dangerous leaps over 2 meter-high stones. Typical scenes are dancers clad in traditional costumes with bird feathers on their heads, a hall for the Chief-of Tribe built on wooden logs with stone chairs weighing up to 18 tons. There are daily flights from Medan to Nias Island.

To reach this place, there is weekly ship from Jakarta (the capital city of Indonesia) to Gunung Sitoli; There are Ferries from Sibolga to Gunung Sitoli, Teluk Dalam, or Lahewa every day; Before the crisis hit Indonesia, there is daily flight from Medan to Gunung Sitoli, however it is less frequent nowadays. Gunung Sitoli is the capital city of Nias and it is the center of administration and business affairs of regency. There are several travel agencies hotels, public busses and rental cars to support tourism here. There are also some government and private banks available.

Geographically
Nias Island lies on 10 30' north latitude and 970 98' east longitudes. It covers of 5,625 km2 areas, which is mostly lowland area of ± 800 m above sea level.

Population
It is the biggest in a group of islands on Sumatra side that is part of North Sumatra province. This area consists of 131 islands and Nias Island is the biggest. The population in this area is about 639,675 people (including Malay, Batak, and Chinese). Nias has a very unique culture and nature, which is far different from other areas in North Sumatra. This is because of its separate and remote location from the rest of Sumatra.

Unique Tradition
The many stone sculptures, from uncarved blocks to fine relieves and figures, are witness to festivals of merit or passage. In the southern villages, whole groups of obeliscs, benches, tables and seats can be situated in front of a house. In Central Nias, groups of horizontal sculptures, called behu, are found. They can be plain obelisks or anthropomorphic figures.

Segments of stone walls are the main objetcs of a ritual in South Nias villages: the lompat batu, jumping over the stone.

How to Get There

By plane

A large number of international airlines fly to Indonesia's capital, Jakarta, from where several domestic airlines fly to North Sumatra's capital, Medan. There are also direct flights to Medan from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. It takes a 45 minutes flight to reach Nias from Polonia Airport, Medan.

Merpati Airlines (20 seats) and Riau Airline (50 seats) operate twice daily flights to the Binaka Airport in Gunungsitoli, which is located in the northern part of the island. It is here where your journey to discover the southern part of the island will start! Bookings can be made directly with these airlines or with any travel agent.

Please reconfirm your return flight 48 hours before your departure from Nias to ensure seat availability on the day you are due to leave.

From Binaka Airport to Sorake Beach

From Binaka it takes 2.5 hours by car to reach the Sorake Beach area in the Teluk Dalam sub-district, South Nias. To make your travel more comfortable and spare your surf board from damages, you can arrange a car in advance through your travel agent or guide to pick you up at the airport..

For those who have not rented a car in advance, it is also possible to rent a car upon your arrival at the airport. Several rental car owners offer their services at the airport.. They charge around Rp 500,000 for bringing you to southern Nias. (Rate in 2008)

Alternatively, you can take a minibus, which is much cheaper. There are minibus services (operated by Sabang Merauke Air Charter and Riau Airlines) from Bineka Airpot to Gunungsitoli (Rp 35,000). The bus terminal is located around 1.5 km south of the center of Gunungsitoli from where minibuses go to Teluk Dalam. The three-hour drive will cost you around Rp 60,000. From Teluk Dalam, you can take a local bus to Sorake Beach for Rp 6,000. But if you want to enjoy fresh air while travelling, you can take a motorbike-taxi (ojek), which costs around Rp 20,000.

By Ferry

To experience a more local and challenging way of travelling, you can travel over land to from the Sibolga Seaport in North Sumatra, wher you can take a ferry to Nias Island. When the sea is calm, the ferry trip to Gunung Sitoli port takes round nine hours and around 12 hours to Teluk Dalam.

Car and motorcycle rental

Public transportation in South Nias is not readily available. Pick-up transportation service is common in which a car takes passengers from one village to another. It is also possible to rent a car or motorcycle in Teluk Dalam or the Sorake beach area. The car rental rate is around Rp 500.000 per day, including gasoline and driver, rental rate for a motorcycle is around Rp 200.000. If you ride a motorcycle, please don't forget to wear a helmet for your own safety.

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Bunaken Paradise

Ever fancy yourself being a mermaid? Being able to swim in tune with other creatures of the sea, flipping your bodies to the rhythm of the waves? In Bunaken Sea Park, you will encounter a real mermaid, and you can also view a glimpse of the sea life here.

Bunaken is an island of 8.08 km² at Manado Bay, situated in the north of Sulawesi Island, Indonesia. This Island is part of Manado city, the capital city of North Sulawesi, Indonesia. The Sea Park in Bunaken Island is as part of National Park of Old Manado Ocean.

In this Bunaken Sea Park, visitors can see various marine lives at the bottom of Bunaken Sea. To reach this park, you can go by sea transportation like motor boat. Visitors are charged 25,000 rupiahs per person for one visit. The trip to Bunaken Sea Park Location from Manado City takes 40 minutes by motor boat.

Translucent water of Bunaken sea enables people to view numerous sea biota clearly. There are 13 coral reefs in this park, dominated by edge ridges of rock and block ridges of rock. The most attractive view is the steep vertical sloppy coral reef as far as 25-50 meters high.

Feast your eyes with 91 fish types found in this Bunaken National Park, amongst other things locally known gusimi horse fish (Hippocampus), white oci (Seriola rivoliana), yellow-tail lolosi (Lutjanus kasmira), goropa (Ephinephelus spilotoceps and Pseudanthias hypselosoma), ila gasi (Scolopsis bilineatus) and so on.

Visitors may also meet with mollusk types like giant kima (Tridacna gigas), goat head (Cassis cornuta), nautilus (Nautilus pompillius) and tunikates/ascidian.

BunakenViewing the underwater lives might not be sufficient to quench your curiousity. Especially when you are on land and the marine beings appear to be out of reach. For those who enjoy scuba diving, this is the great place to do so. With about 20 diving spots to choose from, divers will have the chance to swim under the sea, and frolick joyfully while admiring the sea creatures.

Make sure to visit Bunaken during its highlight season in May to August. That way you can explore this place to the fullest.

Getting There

Bunaken IslandBunaken Island is easily reached from Manado by motorized outrigger boat, departing from Manado harbor, Molas, Kalasey and Tasik Ria beaches. The public boats from Manado to Bunaken are leaving daily around 2 p.m (depending on tide), except Sundays, from Pasar Jengki near Manado harbor. Back from Bunaken to Manado usually early in the morning, around 7-8 a.m

There are also chartered boats scheduled to depart in the morning and return in the late afternoon. These are usually reserved for travel packages offered by agents or even hotels.

Getting Around

You can explore the land on foot. And you can use a boat to move from one dive site to other sites. Even walking around the beach is already an enjoyable experience.

To Do

BunakenMost diving takes place near Bunaken and Manado Tua, because of their many excellent sites. The following is representative of the diving in the area.

Lekuan Walls (I, II, III)
This long wall on Bunaken is divided into three sites: Lekuan I, II and III. Together they represent the park's best. Steep walls are marked with deep crevices, sea fans and giant sponges. The shallows are filled with fishes. The wall, often protected from stronger currents, is frequented by bumphead parrotfish, turtles, and Napoleon wrasses.

Mandolin
Mandolin has a knockout reef crest and a wall that attracts thousands of fishes like schooling fusiliers, surgeonfish, unicornfish, and bannerfish. They are acclimated to divers and are easily approachable.

Bunaken Timor
There are strong currents and lots of fishes on this long wall. The shallow reef isn't as spectacular as some but there are turtles, sharks, eagle rays, and other big fishes in the blue. Overhangs and small caves mark the wall.

Tanjung Kopi
Tanjung Kopi is a nice wall with a small school of barracuda and lots of sweetlips. Visibility in the shallows is not terrific but the numbers of fishes make up for it. Nudibranches and fire gobies are easy to spot here.

Siladen Island
Siladen has a beautiful wall of soft corals that bloom when the current is running. The shallows are nice with lots of fishes and schooling snappers.

Muka Gereja
Muka Gereja is a pretty site with thousands of fishes in the shallows and deeper canyons that lead to the wall.

Barracuda Point
Barracuda Point, on northwest Montehage, is one of the furthest sites. A school of giant barracuda are regulars along with jacks and tuna.

Manado Wreck
This 60m (200ft) long German merchant ship sank near Molas Beach in 1942. It sits upright with the bow at 23m (78ft). The ship is split near amidships back to the stern, exposing the wheelhouse and cargo holds. Dives finish up on a nearby shallow reef. Expect 10-15m (30-50ft) visibility.


Other than diving-enthusiasts, ornithologists and amateur bird-watchers might find visiting Tangkoko Dua Sudara Nature Reserve entertaining.

To Stay

On the island you have the choice amongst a number of homestays, with rates starting at Rp40,000 for one person a day, including full board. Some of the dive operators on Bunaken are offering more upmarket accommodation, including running water.

You can also stay in the hotels in Manado and then book a daily package to Bunaken, usually leaving in the morning and returning in the late afternoon. See our Travel Directory for starred hotels in Manado (North Sulawesi --> Kota Manado)

To Eat

There are several of restaurants and cafes throughout Manado and the islands. Try their specialties: seafood, bubur manado and food made of coconuts!

To Buy

Sea-related products, such as items made of seashells, corals, etc. The city of Manado also has many kinds of souvenirs to bring back home, such as signature food, shirts, cloths, handicrafts and trinkets.

Tips

Entrance tags and tickets can be purchased through marine tourism operators based in Manado and in the Bunaken National Park, or can be purchased from one of three ticket counters in Bunaken and Liang villages on Bunaken Island and on Siladen Island.

You should be aware that during the absolute peak season months July and August it usually gets VERY busy. Many of the better resorts and dive operators will not be able to accept walk-ins during that time since they are fully booked. Better make a reservation before.

Try to hire equipment from larger firms as these tend to be more reliable, but remember: the responsibility of checking the equipment is ultimately yours.

If you're the more adventurous type, you can try diving in Raja Ampat and Wayag Island.

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Komodo A warehouse of unusual sea creatures

Komodo National Park lies along the Sape Strait separating Sumbawa in the east from Flores in the west. To the north is the Flores Sea, and to
the south, the Sawu Sea and Sumba Strait.

The tidal difference between these seas creates very strong currents in the waters of Komodo. These strong currents are rich in nutrients, supporting a marine habitat home to over 1000 fish species, 260 species of reef coral, and marine mammals such as dolphins and whales.

Komodo is known as a good place to spot sharks, turtles, and manta rays. From June to September, the water temperature gets quite low, ranging between 20 and 26 degrees Celsius.

Komodo is also famous as a “warehouse” of unusual sea creatures: leaf fish, frog fish, sea apples, nudibranchs, and various types of rhinopias. To see these rare creatures, you need to spend some time diving south of Pulau Rinca, near Nusa Kode and Cannibal Rock. You can get to these locations by taking a two- to three-hour boat ride from Labuan Bajo, but the most efficient way is to use a “liveaboard” facility.

With its tremendous diversity and abundance of extraordinary marine life, Komodo certainly deserves to be acknowledged as a world heritage site worthy of protection. Komodo is currently a strong contender to be chosen one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature.

Castle Rock and Crystal Rock are two favorite diving spots, located opposite one another. It took us around an hour to get there from Labuan Bajo. Approaching Castle Rock, we could see rocks and reefs protruding through the water surface. This location is a submerged reef north of Pulau Komodo. Various small craft, including rubber boats, were floating around the area, accompanying divers who had arrived from nearby liveaboards.

Our first dive was down to a depth of around 15 meters; we saw dense clusters of colorful corals. The current was swift, but not too strong to swim against. Sea fans attracted our attention; we stopped to photograph them. Huge schools of red and orange anthias played around the corals. It was a challenging dive, but well worth it; the underwater views were spectacularly colorful. It’s no wonder that Castle Rock and Crystal Rock are favorites with divers.

Another popular location is Batu Bolong, recognizable from a cluster of rocks rising from the water’s surface, one with a large hole in it. When diving at this sport, you need to pay careful attention to the currents, which can easily pull you in the wrong direction. In this dive, we were again treated to views of fairly dense coral structures, with no significant noticeable damage. We also encountered an unusual underwater structure with several gaps forming small valleys, though most of the seabed contour is dominated by steep slopes. We came across several whitetip sharks that seemed to be quite interested in us.

The underwater beauty of Komodo has been known since the early 1990, before West Manggarai Regency was formed. Because the infrastructure on the nearby islands of Komodo and Rinca was so basic, the most convenient way to visit Komodo then was to take a “liveaboard” from Bali.

These liveaboard boats take tourists to explore the islands around Komodo and provide complete diving facilities. Since 2003, West Manggarai has been a separate province, split off from Manggarai Regency, and since that time Labuan Bajo, the chief city of West Manggarai, has been developing itself. There are now regular direct flights between Bali and Labuan Bajo, taking a little over an hour from Denpasar. Accommodations have also sprung up along the beaches of Labuan Bajo - everything from simple losmen to star-rated resorts.
In addition to these lodgings, Labuan Bajo has also now become a base for liveaboards, which previously departed only from Bali. Diving facilities have also become quite easy to find; the dive centers work with the liveaboards and resorts to accommodate their guests.

Many restaurants and small bars have also sprung up between the larger buildings in Labuan Bajo.

So now you have two options to explore the underwater beauty of Komodo – liveaboard or land-based.

In the liveaboard option, you stay, eat and perform all your activities on the boat and sail directly to the spots where you want to dive or to enjoy the spectacular views of Komodo. If you like your adventure experience efficient, a liveaboard is the right choice for you. If, on the other hand, you tend to get seasick, or enjoy sightseeing and meeting the local people, land-based facilities are probably more suitable.

Komodo is full of well-known dive spots: Chrystal Rock, Shotgun Channel, Batu Bolong, Pink Beach, Tatawa Besar and Tatawa Kecil, Nusa Kode, Cannibal Rock, Padar, and of course Manta Alley, where you can see schools of manta rays very easily. You can reach most of these locations in one to two-and-a-half hours (one way) by taking a 200-hp speedboat from Labuan Bajo (depending on weather conditions). Tourists entering the Komodo National Park area are required to pay a conservation fee of US$15–US$45 for foreign tourists or Rp 75,000–Rp 225,000 for local tourists, with the amount based on how long you are staying.

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Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve “It’s Hard to Imagine...”

Text by Virgina Veryastuti Photos by Jan Dekker

Birds chirping, dense growths of mangrove and pedada trees swarming with long-tailed monkeys – it's hard to imagine that all this can still be found in Jakarta, but it is, at the Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve in North Jakarta.

Entering the wildlife reserve, I was greeted by birds calling to one another from the mangrove and pedada trees. They seemed to be welcoming our arrival with the sounds of nature. It was all so peaceful and pleasant.

The Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve (Suaka Margasatwa Muara Angke, SMMA) is a small conservation area of mangrove forests on the north coast of Jakarta. It was originally established by the Netherlands Indies government as a nature preserve on 17 June 1939 with an area of 15.04 ha, and later expanded to 1,344.62 ha in the 1960s.

Unfortunately, steadily increasing environmental pressures from both within and outside the Muara Angke area have damaged much of the reserve. Therefore, 60 years after it was first designated as a nature preserve, in 1998 the Indonesian government changed its status to that of a wildlife reserve.

As the last remaining mangrove forest in Jakarta, SMMA, which has a conservation area of 25.02 hectares, is Jakarta's last line of defense against seawater abrasion and rising tides, as well as functioning as lungs for the city and a runoff area for floodwaters.

That afternoon I was accompanied by Edy Sutrisno, a volunteer from Jakarta Green Monster, and two German tourists who had been staying in Jakarta for seven months. We enjoyed the view of the clusters of mangroves and pidada and nipah trees by hiking along the 800-meter bridge trail, which was completed in March last year.

Now and then we saw birds emerging from the dense mangroves; several long-tailed monkeys seemed to be holding a caucus in the trees, or even crossing the trail. Edy said that this bridge trail will be extended to circumnavigate the SMMA area and connected to the protected forest so that visitors will have an even more interesting experience.

Within the reserve there are at least 30 species of plants, of which eleven are trees. The types of mangrove trees here include bakau (Rhizophora mucronata, Rapiculata), api-api (Avicennia spp.), pidada (Sonneratia caseolaris) and buta-buta (Excoecaria agallocha). Other tree species such as ketapang (Terminalia catappa) and nipah (Nypa fruticans) are also found here.

Apart from these species, several others have been introduced as part of the reforestation effort, such as asam jawa (tamarind, Tamarindus indica), bintaro (Cerbera manghas), kormis (Acacia auriculiformis), nyamplung (Calophyllum inophyllum), tanjang (Bruguiera gymnorrhiza), and waru laut (Hibiscus tiliaceus).

The SMMA is also a habitat for many species of birds and other creatures that are becoming scarce, particularly within Jakarta. Jakarta Green Monster has recorded 91 bird species found in the reserve: 28 species of water birds and 63 of forest birds. Around 17 of these are protected species.

I also had the chance to observe the birds from the ‘Bird Hide', a sort of platform placed securely in the middle of the path. From there, we could watch birds gathering food and engaged in other activities, without disturbing them.

Among the bird species commonly found at SMMA are Pecuk-padi Kecil (lesser cormorant, Phalacrocorax niger), Cangak (heron, Ardeola spp.), Kuntul (egret, Egretta spp.), Kareo Padi (white-breasted water hen, Amaurornis phoenicurus), Mandar Batu (moorhen, Gallinula chloropus), Betet Biasa (red-breasted parakeet, Psittacula alexandri), Merbah Cerukcuk (yellow-vented bulbul, Pycnonotos goiavier), Kipasan Belang (pied fantail, Rhipidura javanica), Remetuk Laut (golden-bellied gerygone, Gerygone sulphurea), and many others. Several of these species are endemic to the mangrove forest, such as Sikatan Bakau (mangrove flycatcher, Cyornis rufigastra). The SMMA is also home to the Perenjak Jawa (bar-winged prinia, Prinia familiaris).

Several other endemic bird species found hare are species found only on the island of Java, such as Cerek Jawa (Javan plover, Charadrius Javanicus) and Bubut Jawa (Sunda coucal, Centropus nigrorufus). The Bubut Jawa is a world endangered species that exists in only a few places, including the SMMA.

The Bubut Jawa population in SMMA is currently no more than ten individuals. Another endangered bird species that lives here is the bangau bluwok (milky stork, Mycteria cinerea). The only place in Java where this species is known to breed is Pulau Rambut, an island not far from Muara Angke.

In addition to the bird species, the SMMA also has several bands of long-tailed macaques (Macaca fascicularis). There are currently around three large bands of these monkeys, each comprising around 20 to 30 animals. Their main food is the young leaves and fruits of the mangrove trees, such as pidada (Sonneratia caseolaris) fruits. These long-tailed monkeys play an important role in the Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve, because they help disseminate the seeds of the forest plants; these indigestible seeds are expelled in their feces.

Another mammal species that lives in the SMMA but is much more rarely seen is the berang-berang cakar-kecil (small-clawed otter, Aonyx cinerea). This small carnivore, which feeds on fish and other water creatures, is mostly nocturnal.

The SMMA is also home to various reptile species, such as biawak air (water monitor, Varanus salvator), ular sanca kembang (reticulated python, Python reticulatus), ular sendok Jawa or Javan spitting cobra (Naja sputatrix), ular welang (banded krait, Bungarus fasciatus), ular kadut belang (puff-faced water snake, Homalopsis buccata), ular cincin mas (gold-banded mangrove snake, Boiga dendrophila), ular pucuk (green whip snake, Ahaetula prasina), and ular bakau (dog-faced water snake, Cerberus rhynchops). Local residents also claim that buaya muara (estuary crocodile, Crocodylus porosus) are found here.

While walking along the bridge trail, we were surprised to see an eagle circling over the SMMA area. Edy suspected that it was a crested serpent eagle (elang ular bido), a species that would normally be seen in the mountains.

SMMA is also an important transit area for birds migrating between the northern and southern hemispheres.

"It's hard to imagine you can find a place like this in Jakarta. I'm so happy it exists, but at the same time a bit sad because the area is too small," said Guido, a German tourist who is also an entomologist.

The operator of the SMMA is the Natural Resource Conservation Unit (BKSDA). This agency is technically under the Department of Forestry, but in practice it is assisted by other institutions such as the Jakarta Green Monster community, whose volunteers publicize the reserve's existence, share their knowledge by inviting school groups to visit, and conduct monitoring survey of the animals found in the reserve.

Currently, most of the visitors to the Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve are students or tourists who want to see the Bubut Jawa. It's also a great alternative tourism destination in Jakarta – a place to relax after your intense daily routine. Listening to the ceaseless chirping of the birds, or looking at the colors of the insects as they flit among the trees, helps us to forget all that – it's really hard to imagine you're still in Jakarta.

source: garuda magazine

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Taking a Peek at Lombok

Text by Taufik Darusman Photos by Jan Dekker

Dubbed as "unspoiled Bali" or "Bali's sister island", Lombok is (almost) everything Bali is not. But that is precisely what prompts many to visit the island.

While it takes only 20 minutes of flying time for Garuda Indonesia's Boeing 737-400 to bring you from Ngurah Rai airport in Bali to Mataram, the capital city of Lombok, the two islands are actually worlds apart.

Lombok's quite and undeveloped environment stands in marked contrast to that of Bali's, beckoning travelers seeking a relaxed pace and spectacular natural beauty.

Most well-heeled tourists tend to gravitate towards Senggigi, a 10-kilometer strip along the coastal road north of Mataram, where most star-rated beach resorts and nightlife action are found.

Lombok is just as large as Bali and offers many tourism sites that suit all kinds of visitors. And the right time to visit Lombok is May, when the climate is perfect: bright, sunny days amidst lush greenery.

The population of Lombok, which forms part of the Province of West Nusa Tenggara, is no more than three million. As such, many with no hidden interest or pretense actually wish to see Lombok remain as is: quite, natural and pure.

But such thoughts may not be fair to the local community, which can make strides only if the tourism business grows. On the other hand, that can only happen if physical development in the forms of infrastructure and other public facilities takes place.

Lombok is not a place that offers surfing, diving and snorkeling opportunities only, but also beautiful woven textiles like songkets and ikats that can be used as a sarong, wall decoration and tableware. Check out the traditional hand weaving village in Puyung, Central Lombok, if you're a collector of fine textiles.

Lombok is also gaining fame for its pottery that comes in all shapes and sizes. Its popularity is such that many of it are now shipped throughout the world. Look no further than Banyumulek (West Lombok), Penujak (Central Lombok) and Masbagik (East Lombok), the three villages most famous for making pottery.

Many of their traditional handicrafts deserve to be taken back home as souvenirs, namely wooden masks, ketak grass baskets, wooden boxes embedded with fragments of sea shells, or bamboo- and rattan-based items.

Lombok now appears to be entering a tourist boom of sort. As Bali is seen overcommercialized over the past few years, marked by unbearable congestion and less open, natural spaces, many tourists now nod towards the charms of ‘undiscovered' Lombok. With this new interest comes the development of a number of posh boutique resorts on the island, serving quality food and drinks just as Bali was decades ago.

Emaar, the Dubai-based property company, is reportedly set to develop a new town in Central Lombok by investing US$600 million. Its main feature is a 7km natural waterfront that complements a marina, golf course, luxury residences and five-star resorts managed by The Ritz-Carlton.

If after overexposure to the beach, sand and sun begins to work on your nerves, make time to visit Mataram. The city is beginning to display signs of a metropolitan in the making in the way of a shopping mall well-stocked with general consumer and electronic goods. In Mataram one already can find branch offices of national and foreign banks as well as fast food outlets such as KFC.

It may take five to ten years before Lombok achieves what Bali has attained: "the world's most favorite island resort" as voted by readers of Travel+Leisure. But this is
perhaps all the more reason for you to visit Lombok now

Places to Visit

1. The three little islands that make up Gili Islands offer good diving, snorkeling sites, sandy beaches and some nightlife.
2. The volcanic Mount Rinjani, the third-highest in Indonesia, features many trekking routes.
3. Kuta has some of the best surfing spots in the world, and beautiful beaches.
4. The Narmada Park houses a Hindu temple and a famous fountain as well.

Places to Stay

1. Holiday Resort Lombok
2. Novotel Coralia Lombok
3. Qunci Villas
4. Sheraton Senggigi Beach Resort
5. Tugu Lombok
6. Vila Ombak

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Finding Mola

Text and Photos by Meliana Salim

Nusa Penida is a diver's playground with numerous sites worthy of exploring and home to the rare Mola-Mola and Manta Rays.

The beauty of underwater Indonesia is virtually unmatched.

I shudder at the thought of hypothermia.

At a chilly 19° Celsius and 30 metres down, my three-millimetre wetsuit is no match for the brutal thermocline: the wild temperature variations as steep as 8° Celsius in the space of mere metres. I rub my arms vigorously in an attempt to maintain my body temperature. We are on a hunt. Photo hunt, that is.

"When I dive, I feel alive. Everything else is just a surface interval", said Dr. Phil Nuytten, a renowned Canadian ocean explorer.

A statement I can easily relate to. I am blessed, as I live in the highlands of Bali. For a scuba fanatic, it's a dream come true. I often feel the need to descend from the hills to answer the call of the ocean and lubricate my lungs. The beauty of living on a tropical island is that world-class dive spots are simply a phone call and an hour's drive away.

Divers from all over the world congregate in Bali between July and October to catch a hopeful glimpse of the migratory Ocean Sunfish, also known as Mola-Mola (from the Latin word for millstone, aptly used to describe their roundish figure). These magnificent creatures currently hold the record for the heaviest bony fish on earth; a 3.1-metre long specimen weighed in at 2,235 kg (Carwadine, 1995).

Mola-Mola spend much of their time at cold depth feeding on their favourite diet: jellyfish. Their coarse sandpapery skin is covered with up to 40 different genera of parasites. Occasionally they emerge from the deep to rejuvenate at cleaning stations where schools of bannerfish await, eager to offer parasite riddance services. And one of these cleaning stations is conveniently located at Bali's own Nusa Penida, a mere 40-minute boat ride from Sanur Beach.

Nusa Penida is the largest of three islands (Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan) lying off the southeast coast of Bali. This 17-kilometre long island is home to stunning corals and diverse marine life. It is a diver's playground with numerous dive sites worthy of exploring: Crystal Bay, Blue Corner, Bat Cave, SD, and Toyapakeh, to name a few. Besides hosting the Mola-Mola's seasonal migrations, Nusa Penida is also home to Manta Rays at Manta Point.

It is a gorgeous mid-July day at Crystal Bay – a signature dive site in Nusa Penida famed for the most consistent Mola sightings. The site isn't named 'Crystal Bay' for nothing; the waters are so clear it seems as if we're looking through a piece of glass. I'm accompanied by my dependable dive buddy, I Made Wirawan, the founder of Bali Marine Sports dive centre, who comes equipped with his natural ability to detect Mola-Mola from a great distance. Mola sightings are dependant on various dive conditions: weather, time of day and month, and dive traffic.

Made signals for me to follow him. We descend further and come to a halt at a sloping reef, facing the open ocean with bated breath. We have limited time to stick around at the risk of running low on air and facing decompression sickness. My heart is racing and I no longer feel the icy water. And there it is, a 3-metre wide Mola parking motionlessly. Six overzealous bannerfish are feasting on its parasite-infested spotty silver skin. The Mola seems to be at peace with this complimentary grooming ritual. It's a pretty bizarre-looking fish with a massive head, rounded tail, and long sweeping fins atop and below.

I maneuver myself carefully so as not to disrupt its spa session. According to several reports, the Mola also habitually rests flat at the surface of the ocean to sunbathe, hence the common name "ocean sunfish". A series of questions run through my head: Why do they choose to come to Bali? Where do they go from here? How do they reproduce? What are their roles in the marine environment? And how many are there left in this world?

Startled by a group of oncoming divers, it swiftly wakes up from an apparent trance. Its initial glide is smooth and graceful, but within seconds it speeds up and disappears into the abyss, leaving behind disappointed bubble-makers.

In mid-October last year I had the pleasure of meeting Dr. Tierney Thys, a passionate Californian marine biologist, a National Geographic Emerging Explorer and a filmmaker, during her workshop to the students of Green School, Bali's innovative answer to alternative education. She was on a mission to place satellite tags on the Mola and collecting tissue samples for genetic and toxin analysis in the hope of uncovering the secrets of these remarkable creatures.

Dubbed as 'the next generation's champion of ocean exploration' by National Geographic, Dr. Thys and her team have dedicated almost a decade travelling the world's ocean and studying the mysterious ways of the Mola. Despite their massive size, the Mola remains a creature of mystery; we still don't know much about their reproductive cycle, population, migratory route, and hunting habits.

"It's got these big eyes and a goofy look that draws you in to the ocean environment and sparks more questions", claimed Dr. Thys.

"We want to get people thinking about the ocean and not thinking that land is separate from the ocean but that it's a big continuum. We can't have healthy land with an unhealthy ocean."

It is easy to have a certain expectation of entitlement when you've come a long way to see the Mola, but keep in mind that the well-being of the marine life comes first. Go with a reputable dive company with safety-minded dive instructors, be prepared for strong unpredictable currents, and respect the sanctuary of the Mola.

One can't help but feel humbled in the presence of such evolutionary prehistoric creature. Human civilization is a mere drop in the ocean. Scuba divers and other ocean explorers have been given the privilege of witnessing some of Nature's most incredible masterpieces. We are stewards of the ocean and with this come a great responsibility to raise awareness and protect Earth's underwater inhabitants.

To learn more about Dr. Thys and her research or to adopt a Mola- Mola, please visit www.oceansunfish.org

Recommended Dive Centre:
Bali Marine Sports
Phone: (62-361) 270386, 289308, 288776
Email: bali4mola@yahoo.com
www.bmsdivebali.com

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Kapoposang

Kapoposang is one of the largest of the Spermonde Islands, around 70 km northwest of Makassar, South Sulawesi. Kapoposang covers an area of around 50,000 hectares and is inhabited by around 100 families. Several other islands, both inhabited and uninhabited, lie near Kapoposang. The larger ones include Papandangan, Kondongbali, Suranti and Tambakulu.

Kapoposang and the nearby islands were declared a Nature Tourism Park by the Department of Forestry in 1999. Diving has been an important activity at Kapoposang since the mid 1990s, pioneered by several local divers including Sani Limbunan and Andi Januar Jaury. But because there were so few local divers at the time, and because of the distance from other well-known diving areas in Indonesia, Kapoposang has basically remained a secret.

Even now, there are only two accommodations at Kapoposang, managed by the Makasar Dive Centre and the Popsa Dive Club.

Your journey to Kapoposang Island starts from Popsa pier, near Fort Rotterdam, a historic fort surviving from the Gowa-Tallo kingdom.

The best time to visit Kapoposang is between April and November, when the seas are calm, the weather favorable, and the wind less fierce than in the other months. The trip takes two hours by speedboat; the ocean breezes help to cool your skin in the hot morning sun.

As you approach Pulau Kapoposang, you see the deep blue water, which suddenly meets an expanse of coral reefs between extensive shallows with white sands in the seabed. Sea grass also grows lushly near the shore. The sea bed at Kapoposang has a unique composition; near the island are some quite shallow contours, and then suddenly steep underwater cliffs leading to seemingly endless depths. The water is very clear; you can expect underwater visibility of over 15 meters – ideal conditions for divers.

We had to bring all our supplies from Makassar, because the accommodations on the island are not equipped with full logistical support. Luckily, we didn't have to bring a diving compressor, because this facility is provided at Kapoposang.

According to the Indonesian Academy of Sciences (LIPI), which conducts monitoring and assessment near Kapoposang, in 2007 there were over 68 species of coral, and over 160 fish species.

Diving points are found along the west, north and east coasts of Kapoposang; some of the best known are "Killing Field", "Shark Point", "Mardjono Point", "Nakano Point", "Cave Point", "Turtle Point", "Aquarium", "Januar Point" and "Ian's Point".

We did our first dive at Cave Point, a favorite spot for underwater photographers because of the extremely high diversity of marine life found here. Our dive started from the inner part of a rock wall; at a depth of four meters, a cliff nearly 90 degrees downward was right in front of us. We slowly approached the escarpment and gazed down into the deep blue water. It reminded us of the diving contours at Bunaken, with steep, seemingly bottomless escarpments providing great diving challenges. The visibility, over 20 meters, makes a dive down to 30 meters feel not that deep.

There were many small gaps in the escarpment; this is why it's called "Cave Point". The gaps in the coral typically form small caves where you may see turtles sleeping. But it must not have been our lucky day, because we didn't see any turtles, though we did encounter some large pelagic fish, including jackfish and tuna.

Suddenly, out of one of these little caves darted a white-tip reef shark, giving us a bit of a fright, though these sharks are not actually dangerous to humans.

Our second dive was at Killing Field, just 15 minutes from where we were staying. Killing Field is next to another dive spot called "Shark Point", and more challenging than Cave Point. The seabed walls are not as deep as at Cave Point; at a depth of around 30 meters, it changes to a vast expanse of sand.

The strong currents here attract large fish to feed. We came across a large Great Barracuda, perhaps a meter long. In the distance, we also saw several Eagle Rays, a type of stingray that swims in the open sea like pelagic fish; its head resembles and eagle's, and from a distance it does look like a flying bird.

We also did a night dive near the lodging, at a spot called "Aquarium". Our flashlights lit up the colorful coral reefs. Nudibranches, which are already quite colorful, seemed even more beautiful at night. We also encountered some sleeping puffer fishes. It's easier for divers to get close to fish at night, when they are less active. Aquarium is a very easy spot for diving, with depths of only around four to eight meters and almost no current.

At Ian's Point, concrete blocks have been planted to provide an environment for fish; these are called "fish aggregation devices", or in Indonesian, rumpon. The rumpon attract smaller fish, as here they can hide from predators. Eventually, coral will grow on them, and they will function as semi-artificial coral reefs.

Kapoposang's unique beauty makes it a useful asset for the local community, but it remains underutilized. Attention from the public and the local government will enable Kapoposang to become an icon for Indonesia and South Sulawesi.

This article from garuda magazine

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Discovering the Thousand Islands

As the name suggests, these small islands offer a wide range of attractions, from tourism to marine life.

Pulau Seribu, the "Thousand Islands", extend northward from Jakarta in Jakarta Bay. Actually numbering only around 140, they nevertheless offer many points of interest, particularly maritime tourism with white sand beaches, calm waters, and underwater coral formations. Most of the islands lie within the Maritime National Park; only 37 islands are allowed to be used for commercial purposes.

Pulau Rambut ("Hair Island"), also known as Bird Kingdom Island, is one of the closest to the mainland of Java; you can get there in just an hour from Muara Angke harbor. The status of this uninhabited 45-hectare island has recently been upgraded from nature preserve to wildlife preserve, because of the rising level of damage within and around the Pulau Rambut area.

In addition to coastal forest, mangrove forest and mixed secondary forest, the Pulau Rambut Wildlife Preserve is also home to 25 species of water birds, among the 61 bird species found there. These include pecuk ular (oriental darter), kuntul (egret), cangak (heron), bangau (stork), and ibis.

A 20-meter bird observation tower stands near the middle of the island. As well as birds, reptiles also live on the island, including monitor lizards, pythons, and geckos. The only mammals found here are fruit bats. There's also a great diversity of plant life, with tree species including pidada, mangrove, key lime, and banyan.

Also found on this island is a bird species that migrates from Australia, the milky stork (bangau bluwok, Mycteria cinerea), which arrives here in January and leaves in August. Pulau Rambut is the only breeding ground for milky storks in Java.

Not far from Pulau Rambut lies Pulau Onrust, near Pulau Cipir and Pulau Kelor. Onrust contains the remains of buildings, including a shipyard, built by the Dutch during the 18th century. Construction at Onrust was started in 1618 by Governor General Jan Pieterszoon Coen. In addition to a pier, he built a shipyard with a windmill to operate the saws.


During the Dutch colonial period, this island was very busy as a port of call for ships of the Dutch East Indies Company (Verenidge Oost Indische Compagnie, VOC), hence the name Onrust, which means "Never Rests".

Beyond Onrust, another interesting island to visit is Pulau Kotok. The Pulau Kotok Tourist Resort is a good example of a tropical atoll, with the original vegetation, clear seas, and colorful coral formations, making it a popular destination for divers. This island is also a rescue and translocation center for protected wildlife species including the white-bellied sea eagle (elang laut perut putih, Haliaeetus leucogaster) and the brahminy kite (elang bondol, Haliaster indus), the mascot of the province of DKI Jakarta.

Further out, around three hours from Muara Angke Harbor, lies Pulau Pramuka. This island houses the Kepulauan Seribu National Park and the Rare Marine Biota Hatchery and Laboratory, where you can watch and learn about the cultivation of rare marine species.

Pulau Pramuka is a sea-turtle dissemination area for the island of Java, particularly Hawksbill turtles (penyu sisik). Twenty years ago, most of the sandy beaches on 108 of the islands provided places where turtles laid their eggs. With the steady increase in human activity and habitation, now the turtles only visit a few islands to lay their eggs, among them Pulau Peteloran Timur, Pulau Peteloran Barat, Pulau Penjaliran Barat and Pulau Penjaliran Timur.

The Hawksbill turtle preservation activities at Pulau Pramuka involve collecting the turtle eggs from the beach where they are naturally laid at Pulau Peteloran. The eggs are then taken to Pulau Pramuka, where they are kept in semi-natural incubation by burying them 40-50 cm deep. The eggs hatch after 40 to 60 days. This turtle conservation activity has made the Thousand Islands a destination for marine conservation and education tourism.

In addition to Hawksbill turtle conservation, other activities on the island include planting of coastal plants – butun, mangrove, and sea grass – and coral reef preservation. The butun trees are being planted in an effort to raise awareness of the importance of coastal forests on small islands. Mangrove planting is done using the Spaced Cluster method, the nationally-approved method for planting mangroves on small islands using coral sand as the medium.

The fabulous underwater panoramas and exoticism of Kepulauan Seribu offer you an action-packed weekend of swimming, snorkeling and diving – a delightful and unforgettable experience.

Text by Virgina Veryastuti Photos by Ati Kurnia From Garuda Inflight Magazine

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