December Highlights In Bali

December seems to be the most special month amongst other months in 2010. Three main holidays from three different religions will appear on December. Surely, as the community who tolerate other religions’ celebration, Balinese will respect any celebrations and hope everything will go smooth. December this year will be also filled by various festal events to welcome New Year 2011. Take a jaunt to Bali and experience the festal celebration of life!




7 December Moslem New Year
The celebration of Moslem New Year is as not festal as the celebration of New Year’s Eve on December 31^st. Even it could be said that there is no celebration, the city is just like usual. No fireworks, no trumpet, no feast. Moslem community goes to mosque, pray, and goes back to their home. However some shopping centers or communication products often give special discount on this day.

8 December Galungan Day
Galungan is Hindus’ main ceremony to celebrate the glory of righteousness against the wickedness. As the sign of the glory, Hindus create Penjor (decorated long bamboo) and stick it in front of the gate. Hence, when you come to Bali on this day you will see how beautiful Bali with the festal decoration of penjor. They celebrate Galungan day during three days. On the core day, Hindus go to temple and enjoy the togetherness with family staying far away from them. Every family cooks traditional dishes such as suckling pig and lawar then on the core of Galungan they gather and eat together.

18 December Kuningan Day
Kuningan is celebrated 10 days after Galungan to pray and demand prosperity from the God and ancestors. Balinese people believe that on this day, the ancestor spirits will return to heaven at mid-day. For this reason they conduct the ceremony and finish all things before 12 pm.

18 December Makotekan
Makotekan is identified as a celebration and ceremony to purify the village and as a symbol of never ending battle between virtue and evil. You can’t enjoy Makotekan at Kuta or Ubud, or Seminyak, since Makoketekan is the privileged ceremony held in Mungu village, Mengwi, Badung. This was a celebration of the glory of Mengwi Kingdom against to Blambangan. All male from Mungu carry Kotekan, long wood decorated with leaves and tamiang and pray firstly to ask for the blessing for the success of Makotekan. They then unite their kotekan forming a mount. Sometimes there is a guy climb it up and stand on the top peak to make another group fall down. It is worth to see! It is a battle where fun covers all the procession.

26 December Pangerebongan
Pangerebongan is another sacred traditional ceremony which aims to protect the village from the disease. This ceremony is also identified as mass trance ritual in which trance people will stab kris to their body.
Unbelievably, they are all ok, without blood or wound. Surely the procession is not all about mass trance. This sacred ritual started at 9 pm till afternoon in the courtyard of Pangerebongan Temple is followed by various rituals such as praying to the Lord, Tabuh rah, summoning ritual, and encircling the wantilan.

25 December Christmas Day
Although Bali Island is dominated with Hindu community but all people enjoy the friendly Santa Klaus in front of the mall entrance or any shopping centers in Bali. All shopping mall will be decorated with typical Christmas-tree decoration. Besides most of great resorts in Bali will do the same; even make special events to mark the coming Christmas. Enjoying Christmas in Bali will be a distinctive experience.

28-30 December Denpasar Festival (Gajah Mada Town Festival)
Starting from 2008 local government of Denpasar holds Gajah Mada Town Festival at Gajah Mada area to recall Denpasar community’s memory. Gajah Mada area was the most interesting area since it provided entrainment as well as shopping center in 1950s. However, nowadays because of the massive modern mall’s development Gajah Mada area turns to be forgotten. By presenting hundreds of various booths showcasing art works from many ethnics, culinary, and band performances, local government has helped Denpasar people to be entertained with something rare to be found in Denpasar. Although there is no official statement that Denpasar Festival will be held in this year yet but for you who plan to have vacation in December should add this event to your list to visit.


31 December New Year’s Eve
Bali will be flocked by many people coming from abroad or other areas in Indonesia to experience how festal Bali in celebrating New Year’s Eve. There will be a lot of fireworks, trumpet, music festival, and many events where people can enjoy the happiness and great entertainments. Welcome the first sun rise in 2011 in the Island Of The Gods.

source : blog.baliwww.com

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Bali October Hilghlights

October Highlights

October is usually the beginning part of rainy season in Indonesiabut with the global warming it seems hard to predict. Anyway, my prediction is; it will still be bright sunny in October just like a year ago. This fact is an advantageous point if you come to Bali on October besides October is a low season that you will get the cheapest rate of Bali accommodation and October is the right month to enjoy some attractions described well in the following agenda.

October 1-6, 2010

Bali Writer’s Retreat

This is an event a week before Ubud’s Writer Festival aiming to learn how to be creative and use this creativity in writing a book. Bali Writer’s Retreat also gives the chance to the participants to know something about writing as business so that the writer can make money from their writing. There will be different topic in each day within 6 days in the ultimate Ubud. In the last day, a simple trip to verdant rice terrace will be organized. For those who would like to know further about writing then should stay in Ubudfor longer time since at 6-10 on the same month Ubud’s Writer and Reader festival will be held.

October 9, 2010

Tumpek Landep

Indeed, Balinese always express gratitude to the Almighty God in His various manifestations. On October 9^th, Balinese will conduct the ceremony expressing gratitude to the lord of steel implement, the god of Pasupati. Special homage is directed to the god of Pasupati through the tool made from steel such as knife, motorbike, computer, scissors, and many more because these tools have helped Balinese in doing daily activity or working. So if you happen to be in Bali on that day, you will see, on the road, the vehicles decorated with coconut-leaves embellishment.

October 6 – 10, 2010

Ubud’s Writers and Readers Festival

Ubud’s Writer and Readers Festival is held annually, for this year its theme is “Bhineka Tunggal Ika: Harmony in Diversity”. It is very exciting to inform you that more than 20 writers from all over the world will attend to this international festival. Thus, if you book yourself in this event there will be a big chance to ‘steal’ secret points to be good in writing from the internationally acclaimed writers.

October 16-20, 2010

BALI NUSA DUA FIESTA

Nusa Dua Fiesta this year will be held during 5 days providing a plenty of pleasure: Balinese cultural heritage, food bazaar, culinary challenge for professional chef, and many more. Taking place on the white sandy beach of Nusa Dua Peninsula, this event will be flocked by tourists from all over the world to see many attractions including tasting the delectable food made by professional chefs and seeing how Balinese women make Gebogan Janur. Enjoy the spectacle and be the witness of spectacular feast.

Bali Villas – A Private Piece Of Paradise

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A Tale of Two Islands, Bali vs Phuket

The shaman inhaled the incense smoke and flicked flower petals into the tropical air. My husband and I were sitting on a patch of earth on the Indonesian island of Bali as the local priest, Ida Bagus Putu Wija, communed with the resident spirits about our vague plans to build a holiday home there. Eventually, the Balinese wise man gave us the news that would literally determine the shape of our future villa. In the parallel spirit world of this devoutly Hindu island, our peaceful stretch of riverbank was actually a bustling spirit town, far bigger than the nearby human village.

What exactly did this spirit city possess, I inquired? The shaman replied: on the lower part of our terraced land, near a rustling stand of bamboo, the spirits had built their own pharmacy, auto-body-repair shop and even a food stall that served fried rice. No infinity-edge swimming pool would be going there, lest we flood the otherworldly denizens picking up a prescription or delivering a motorcycle for a tune-up. We also would need to leave a section of riverbank undeveloped because a local demigod traversed the land on his daily pilgrimage to a volcano up north. My husband and I eyed each other. We'd been prepared for the Bali property market to throw up a challenge or two. But a hopping spirit metropolis and a commuting demigod weren't exactly what we had expected.

Who, sitting at a computer all day, hasn't imagined owning a personal slice of paradise, lush with bougainvillea and frangipani, perhaps a sea breeze carrying the scent of exotic herbs and barbecued delights? Southeast Asia abounds with such dream locales, but two destinations trump all others: Bali and the southern Thai island of Phuket. It is on these two chunks of land, a mere 2,400 square miles (6,200 sq km) combined, that thousands of expatriates have bought tropical vacation homes. Indeed, a global real estate slump notwithstanding, Bali and Phuket's residential sectors are still booming, in part because most of the foreign-owned property on these two islands isn't bank-financed. In Bali, despite a pair of terrorist bombings in 2002 and '05, land prices have increased by at least 20% annually over the past three years, with some prime beachfront land going for double what it did a year ago. In Phuket, which suffered a devastating tsunami in 2004 followed by political jitters because of a 2006 coup, prices for sea-view property on the island's west coast jumped upward of 30%, year on year, in July.

But is there only one heaven on earth? As the holiday-home market has taken off in Asia, Phuket and Bali have nurtured a healthy rivalry with each other, trading off the honor of being listed as Asia's best island in travel magazines. Phuket aficionados talk loftily of the Thai island's superior beaches and cheap but professional hospitals, while Bali fans boast of the island's volcanoes and great surfing spots. Nevertheless, the business of vacation villas isn't a zero-sum game, largely because the members of the international jet set who dig Phuket are a breed apart from the culture vultures who flock to the Indonesian island. "People are usually either Bali people or Phuket people," says Dominique Gallmann, the Swiss-born director of Exotiq Real Estate, which has offices in both Thailand and Indonesia. "They attract different crowds, so the idea of the two islands fighting over the second-home market isn't really true."

Oceans Apart

Despite the seeming similarities — balmy islands in Southeast Asia with international airports, abundant marine life and plenty of cafés serving espresso and freshly baked croissants — Bali and Phuket offer vastly different real estate experiences. First off, Bali is much cheaper than Phuket. Because the Indonesian island is so much larger than its Thai counterpart, Bali offers a wider diversity in terms of topography: verdant rice paddies, soaring volcanoes and several distinctive urban centers. The Indonesian island cherishes its deep cultural roots, with traditions interwoven into daily life, not manufactured for some cheesy ethnic show at a beach resort. But because of these bountiful customs, Bali teems with taboos that can trip up even veteran expatriates. By contrast, Phuket's real estate market is simpler to negotiate with several top international property agencies open for business. Buying a condominium is so straightforward that an increasing number of people — particularly from Hong Kong, Singapore and the Middle East — are purchasing for investment purposes. Yet all that ease, along with better roads and telecommunications, comes at prices that are roughly 40% higher than those in Bali. And for potential buyers who are concerned about cultural authenticity, Phuket underwhelms. Much of the island's vacation-property development follows an anodyne architectural style that could just as easily be in southern California or the Costa del Sol. Phuket may be in Thailand, but large swaths of it don't feel very Thai.

My husband and I chose Bali because we like things a little messy. We're both journalists who enjoy chatting with the shaman, exploring bumpy back-country lanes and trying spicy stews at the open-air restaurant a few rice paddies away from our land. But I recognize that not everyone finds charming the idea of a spirit tax — a contribution to the village partly based on how many spirits reside on your land, and a calculation, mind you, that can only be made by the village elders. Indeed, if you're looking for a stress-free condominium with access to yacht marinas and golf courses, Phuket is the right choice — as long as you have the cash to afford it. "There's a strange situation in Phuket," says Risinee Sarikaputra, head of research for property consultant Colliers International in Thailand. "You have low-end residential units that are bought by Thais, and you have luxury units that are bought by foreigners. But there's no real middle-class level. It's either low or high."

Asia's premier island escapes did not always profit from their coastal charms. Phuket came into its heyday in the 19th century when Chinese tin miners exploited its mineral-rich hills. Later, fortunes were made in rubber trees. The island's main city was originally inland from the Andaman Sea to distance itself from possible devastation by tsunamis or typhoons. So, too, in Bali, where the rich cultural legacy of the Hindu Majapahit culture drew bohemian Western visitors in the 1930s who were mystified as to why most Balinese turned their backs on the lovely beaches, even forsaking fish from their normal diets. (The answer was, in part, because the coasts are considered the domain of demons.)

In the 1970s, though, Bali and Phuket were inundated by foreigners searching for unspoiled hideaways. Tourism soon dominated other industries, with hotels and nightclubs lining once empty beaches. By the 1990s, as overworked Hong Kong investment bankers and Europeans priced out of the Mediterranean real estate market began looking for getaway-home alternatives, the residential property markets in Bali and Phuket began to sizzle. On the Indonesian island, vacation homes mostly take the form of individually constructed villas or those built by smaller developers. The houses, usually designed in a Bali modern style that is now an architectural touchstone for tropical hotels worldwide, are often rented out most of the year to offset building and maintenance costs. Although the Bali model allows for personal creativity, it also means that owners must hire full-time staff to tend to their paying guests, who fork out an average of $200 a night for a two-bedroom villa. In Phuket, however, the vacation market is dominated by condominiums or villa complexes managed by luxury hoteliers. Such management services come at a premium — these properties cost about 30% more than similar nonbranded villas — but you don't have to worry about whether the gardener is feuding with the cook.

House Rules

Buying property in both places isn't quite as simple as purchasing a house back home. Mortgages are rare. Currency fluctuations make buying at the right time all the trickier. And, most importantly, in both Thailand and Indonesia, foreigners cannot own land. Expatriates have two choices. They can either lease land on a long-term basis, which means the value tends to depreciate as the years pass. Or they can set up legal structures in which a local person or company owns the land but usage rights are held by the foreigner. Although tens of thousands of expatriates have negotiated such deals, they can be at a disadvantage should a dispute occur with the local owner. And in Thailand, government officials over the past two years have hinted that they may begin scrutinizing the legality of shell companies set up by foreigners.

Thailand does offer one other option. Unlike in Indonesia, foreigners can own condominiums outright, which explains why apartment complexes are popular in Phuket. Nonetheless, the real lure of Phuket is a villa of your own, preferably with a private infinity pool and ocean view. From 2006 to '07, at least 2,300 high-end residential units were launched in Phuket, and roughly 970 more came up for sale in the first half of this year, according to Colliers International. Prices have skyrocketed, with new buyers from India, South Korea and even Central Asia driving up demand. At the Trisara residential complex, for instance, a sea-view, fully furnished two-bedroom villa managed by the boutique hotel of the same name goes for upward of $4 million for a 120-year lease. A first phase of 18 villas perched over a secluded bay has already sold out, with one three-bedroom property having changed hands four times, its sale price more than tripling to $10 million earlier this year. "It's amazing to see these prices," says sales manager Sukanya Chuaywang, "but they keep selling."

Does the real estate meltdown in other parts of the world presage a price correction in paradise? Surely, as hedge-fund managers find themselves without fat end-of-year bonuses because of the recent market madness, they'll shy away from acquiring luxury second homes. Gallmann of Exotiq Real Estate acknowledges that the financial crisis will dent demand, particularly in Bali where the real estate volume is higher than in Phuket. But he isn't too worried. "Look, I've been involved with Bali for 20 years and through that time we've gone through more than you can imagine, from the Asian financial crisis and a political revolution to SARS, bird flu and two bombings," he says. "But in all that time, property prices have never dropped."

Down to Earth

For me, my current concerns are less global and more spiritual. The former owner of our land, a rice farmer, feels guilty because he failed to erect an on-site shrine to a local goddess. He thinks we should build it to ease his soul and promote village harmony. After all, locals have heard the spirits on our land wailing when they use a nearby water source. Then, in an offhand remark, our shaman tells us about a Frenchman who had built a villa nearby. Wija was called in to bless the land and chat with the spirits about their wishes. He gave advice to the foreigner but apparently none of the spirit-appeasement tactics were followed. After the house was built, a slew of mysterious things occurred. First there was a fire, Wija recounts, then a burglary. The foreigner has since sold his villa and left Bali. Wija smiles. "It is best to keep the spirits happy," he says. We can't agree more — but we still don't know how much happiness will cost us.

source : www.time.com

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Barong Dance, A Part of Balinese Culture

Theater and dance is an integral part of Balinese culture. Balinese dances are famous all over the world and the Balinese themselves take them very seriously. Birthdays, weddings, and temples festivals are all occasions for dramatic performances and dance is inextricably linked with the Balinese religion. The commercial performances for tourists that are today offered on a daily basis in several places of Bali do, of course, not have the same religious significance and atmosphere of a dance that is performed at a real temple festival.

Barong is probably the most well known dance. It is also another story telling dance, narrating the fight between good and evil. This dance is the classic example of Balinese way of acting out mythology, resulting in myth and history being blended into one reality.

The story goes that Rangda, the mother of Erlangga, the King of Bali in the tenth century, was condemned by Erlangga's father because she practiced black magic. After she became a widow, she summoned all the evil spirits in the jungle, the leaks and the demons, to come after Erlangga. A fight occurred, but she and her black magic troops were too strong that Erlangga had to ask for the help of Barong. Barong came with Erlangga's soldiers, and fight ensued. Rangda casted a spell that made Erlangga soldiers all wanted to kill themselves, pointing their poisoned keris into their own stomachs and chests. Barong casted a spell that turned their body resistant to the sharp keris. At the end, Barong won, and Rangda ran away.

Somebody can die or get seriously injured in a Barong dance. It is said that if Rangda's spell is too strong, a weak soldier may not be able to resist it, even with the help of Barong. He may end up hurting himself with his own keris.

The masks of Barong and Rangda are considered sacred items, and before they are brought out, a priest must be present to offer blessings by sprinkling them with holy water taken from Mount Agung, and offerrings must be presented.

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Regularly scheduled dance performances are available throughout the year.

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Tari Pendet ( Pendet Dance ), Beauty - Intractive

Tari Pendet or Pendet Dance

Pendet is a traditional Balinese dance, in which offerings are made to purify the temple or theater as a prelude to ceremonies or other dances. Pendet is typically performed by young girls, carrying bowls of flower petals, handfuls of which are cast into the air at various times in the dance. Pendet can be thought of as a dance of greeting, to welcome the audience and invite spirits to enjoy a performance.

Traditional Balinese dances are the oldest form of performing arts in Bali. Traditional dances can be divided into two types, sacred dance called Wali and entertainment dance called Bebalihan. Wali (sacred dance) is usually performed in some ritual ceremonies only because it has strong magical powers and only can be performed by specific dancers. Bebalihan are usually performed in social events. In addition to entertain, Bebalihan also has other purposes such as: welcoming guests, celebration of harvests, or gathering crowds. Bebalihan has more variations than Wali.

Pendet is the presentation of an offering in the form of a ritual dance. Unlike the exhibition dances that demand arduous training, Pendet may be danced by anyone. It is taught simply by imitation.

Younger girls follow the movements of the elder women, who recognize their responsibility in setting a good example. Proficiency comes with age. As a religious dance, Pendet is usually performed during temple ceremonies.

All dancers carry in their right hand a small offering of incense, cakes, water vessels, or flower formations. With these they dance from shrine to shrine within thetemple. Pendet may be performed intermittently throughout the day and late into the night during temple feasts.

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Quite, Peaceful Amed

By Garuda Indonesia Magazine

Few places in Bali allow you to enjoy a simple coconut oil massage while lying on a bamboo bed in the shade of a fishermen’s hut as Amed.

The Bali that was, long-time Bali-based expat residents insist, can still be found lying a two-hour leisurely drive from Kuta.

A calm and peaceful place, Amed has in recent times rose to discrete prominence, a much-deserved status arrested in the past by bad roads and lack of power and communications, which actually complements its irresistible quietness.

Every bay, some sandy, others rocky, appears to be lined with double-outrigger traditional fishing boats (jukung).

The horizon almost invariably is rife with literally hundreds of the boats’ colorful triangular sails heading off to the fishing grounds morning and afternoon.

Amed is a near-perfect destination for the more mature (read: above 50 years of age) travelers though younger people like it too as it offers them a daily fix of peace and tranquility.
The locals lead a quite lifestyle, making Amed an ideal place for you to spend time either writing your bio, taking stock of your life or doing just nothing and relax.

This relatively undeveloped north-eastern coastal strip in the Karangasem Regency of East Bali, where Amed is located, features some of the island’s best snorkeling amidst spectacular sunrises over the neighboring island of Lombok.

On any given time you are apt to come across tourists strolling slowly along the road or the beach. Or elderly couples walking holding hands, rekindling their love for each other in their own special way, Amed-style.

And almost everywhere there you can hop on a traditional fishing boat for a sunset tour, again to reignite the proverbial fire that simmers inside you.

Amed is actually not just one village but a string of smaller villages, starting with the village Amed in the north followed by Congkang, Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Selang, Banyuning and ending with Aas.

At present Amed is mostly a quiet place with stunning ocean vistas as well as one of the best places in Bali for scuba diving.

The landscape comprises a series of headlands overlooking bays, lined with fishing boats.
From the top of the hill, one cannot but marvel at the serene scenery and feel grateful that the long tracts of land have no given way to tacky opulence in the way of star-rated hotels.

Located on the dry side of the mountains Agung and Saraya, Amed is short in rain throughout the year. The landscape is very arid and the slopes of the mountain look bare.
The sleepy village still remains untouched by the effects of tourism, but as developments, albeit at a snail’s pace, take place along this strip, Amed is likely to become one of the island’s major tourist areas, a gain for local people in search of a decent livelihood but a pain to advocates of the environment.

In the meantime, many locals subsist by producing salt thanks to their proximity to the sea.
To reach Amed is an exhausting trip but is an experience in itself: it is rich in curves and very steep ups-and-downs.

From Amed the road south via Jemeluk, Lipah, Bunutan and Selang is narrow but moderately paved, offering stunning views of mountains on one side and the Lombok Strait on the other.

“Jemuluk, which is a protected bay, is an ideal place to begin snorkeling. Four kilometres further south along the coast is Banyuning, where there’s a small Japanese wreck and beautiful coral gardens,” said our driver.

“The corals are alive and beautiful, but you have to travel a couple of meters to find the most vivid colors.”

Diving schools are available in the area, and readily point you out the best dive spots.
Snorkeling and diving off the black-sand beaches here is exceptional for the variety and numbers of fish. But just to be anywhere along the coast or sit in one of the seaside restaurants and observe dolphins playing in the waves is just as enthralling.

To fly from Jakarta to Bali in a 90-minute journey only to settle down in undeveloped Amed might be an uncool thing to do—it is even more uncool if you’re there and cannot manage to visit the site even for a few hours.

Getting to Amed:
Garuda Indonesia flies the Jakarta-Denpasar vv route 50 times per week, Denpasar-Mataram vv route 7 times per week, Jakarta-Denpasar-Kupang vv route 7 times per week, Yogyakarta-Denpasar vv route 14 times per week, Surabaya-Denpasar vv route 21 times per week.

To get to Amed from Kuta, head for the Bypass towards Sanur and exit to take the road on your right that leads into the coastal highway heading east.

The coastal road was completed a couple of years ago; it now allows you to drive all the way from Tirtagangga in a clockwise manner.

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Every corner of this island offers breathtaking natural views

“ It’s all about rice you know. A constant cycle of planting, harvesting and maintaining the fields to secure a steady supply of food for every village “. This is what’s shaped the whole island according to Made Darmo, who is caught in the beautiful light of morning harnessing the power of his cows to turn another muddy mess into a field of dreams, and dreams it is without the blessing of Dewi, the rice goddess. It all looks idyllic but when you’re up to your knees in sticky mud, suddenly you appreciate the backbreaking work of people like Made Darmo.

Throughout Bali, the many temples, palaces and village are set in landscape that gives harmony and compliments their usage. From dramatic temples on cliff tops, offering beautiful sunset views to the vast stepped rice terraces with quite villages and farmers herding ducks, there are wonderful sights to behold wherever you travel in Bali.

For city dwellers it isn’t hard to be impressed when you set off to explore Bali, all you need to do is walk down to the beach in the morning and you are guaranteed a fabulous view, whether you are in Seminyak, Nusa Dua, Sanur or Lovina, the sea views are marvelous.

But as you venture into the interior which is dominated by immense, extinct volcanoes, you discover that ‘dramatic’ is an inadequate word to describe the subject!

The terraced rice fields are a testimony to generations of farmers carefully building and creating the landscape. The steep ravines which follow the rivers down from the mountains are lush and cool. The village streets are in carved stone, with temples around every corner and in everyone’s house compound.

This is a photographer’s paradise, from the stark beauty of west Bali’ mountains, to the eternal majesty of Uluwatu’s stunning cliffs. So don’t just roar though the countryside to reach your goal: stop and enjoy everyviews.

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Ubud's Culinary Queen

Text by Janet DeNeefe

I thought it would be an ideal time to take you on a jalan-jalan down Ubud's 'culinary' memory lane and honour one of the grand dames of our village cafes. Ubud has been the home to a wok full of Balinese mums who have been satisfying the hearts and appetites of international visitors for many years. These 'domestic goddesses' have helped shape the eating style of Ubud and set it on its dining feet. Their recipe for success has been simple: home-cooked food served with lashings of gracious Balinese hospitality. I often feel shy to be a non-Balinese expounding knowledge on Balinese food amongst these spice divas. I bow to the humble and lasting contribution they have made to our beloved town. And writing this article took me into a time-honoured space that also made me somewhat nostalgic. That's what memories do, I guess.

Enter Ibu Canderi. Canderi's warung was established by Ibu Canderi in the late sixties on Monkey Forest Road when Ubud was still painted in subtle shades of shock after the devastating communist coup only a few years before. Ibu Canderi had her own tale of tragedy to tell, with the loss of her husband during that time. She was still carrying the youngest of five children, a mere baby of a few months, on her hip when she unexpectedly became a widow. I remember hearing her story in the eighties, while sitting near the faded black and white photo of her late husband that hangs in the restaurant to this day. Hard to believe a blood-bath of this nature could happen in Bali.

But I digress. Ibu Canderi opened the doors of her family abode to cater for the new breed of tourist visiting the land Jawarhalal Nehru fondly called "the morning of the earth"; you know, that hippy-type who was looking for the 'real' Bali in flowery kaftans and bare feet sharing lots of love. Canderi had trained as an elementary school teacher but work had dried up after the coup. "We had to eat" she said. So she took the plunge and opened a homestay and restaurant. The only other places to stay, at that time, were Hotel Tjampuhan and lodgings in the palaces.

Canderi's was a simple eatery but in those days all eating places were simple. It was set in the family compound, in the living and breathing quarters of their traditional home, and the surrounding four rooms were available for rent. The restaurant lay in the courtyard and spilled onto the terraces of each room or wherever there was space. The staff was a mix of local Ubud folk and her own offspring; all sporting that laid-back quality that was actually even more laid-back then. The wonderful ambience reflected the warmth of this tiny mother whose gentle demeanour was as soft and loving as a hug for the homesick tourist. We all loved going there and we all loved Ibu Canderi. The food was a quirky mix of Balinese fare and tourist food that had been introduced by international guests who had stayed there: jaffles, guacamole, tacos, chapattis and garlic toast vied for attention with black rice-pudding, tofu fritters and Balinese soups. But despite the flavour, it was all cooked with love.

By the mid-eighties, Canderi's was already an Ubud institution. Ketut and I spent many nights sitting at the bar on rustic bamboo stools, chatting and laughing with Ibu Canderi while watching the action in the kitchen (albeit somewhat slow) and the comings and goings of the guests. There was always someone strumming a guitar under the stars and usually a group of Indonesians and other nationalities playing chess, cards or whatever, in the dimly-lit corners. In fact, nighttimes at Canderi's witnessed the most spirited, charismatic locals that Ubud will perhaps ever see at a time when this artist's refuge was slowly re-awakening. The wild and hilarious (late) Armawa spent every other night there, waxing lyrical with Silvio Santoso, creator of the Ubud Pathfinder map, (where are you, Silvio?). Pranoto, our favourite artist, took turns on the guitar while Nyoman Suradnya, Frank Wilson (before the white robes), Sarita Newson, John Schumann of Redgum fame and assorted local eccentrics gathered in this Alice's Restaurant-type haven, drinking arak, rice wine or mic jus (mixed juice) and chatting about life with whoever chose to listen. Redgum's best seller, "I've been to Bali too", honoured Canderi as part of the Ubud – I don't want to go home – experience.

Well I wandered off to Ubud, just a little up the track. One week there, didn't want to come back. Listening to Gamelan, playing guitar. Canderi's, tacos, Hotel Menara, two-month visa, I've been to Bali too. I was told that even Covarrubias stayed at Canderi's (well, whoever he was, he was Mexican), as well as countless writers, musicians and artists. Gosh, don't we all miss those days.

Ibu Canderi made everyone feel at home in a caring, open-hearted way and isn't that the single, most important attribute of a great host? In fact, it wasn't the food that made Canderi's special; it was simply Canderi. She heralded the new breed of "Ibu" in Ubud, a new type of businesswoman who made friends with people from all places, all walks of life.

I asked her about the tourist in those days. "Were they different back then?" "Oh yes", she said wistfully, "their hearts were much closer to us."

Nowadays, at the age of 75, Canderi still runs her restaurant. And after all, why should she let it go? When I paid a visit the other day, she was still perched behind the desk, surveying the guests with her tender expression. Her restaurant is very much an old-Ubud experience with photos on the wall showing various guests who have visited and that feeling of eating in someone's house still lingers.

Janet DeNeefe is the owner of Casa Luna and Indus restaurants, author of Fragrant Rice, and creator of the Ubud Readers & Writers Festival. She also runs the Casa Luna Cooking School.

surce: garuda magazine

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Pura Luhur Uluwatu - Beautiful and Sacred

Text and Photos by Taufik Darusman from garuda magz

One of Bali’s holiest temples is not only majestic but also offers a spectacular and sweeping view of the Indian Ocean and, of course, stunning sunsets.

Arguably the most spectacular Hindu temple on the island of Bali, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is perched majestically about 80 meters above sea level on the edge of a steep cliff at the southern part of Bali.

Pura Luhur Uluwatu, a classic expression of ancient Bali, is regarded as one of the six main temples in Bali.

It is one of the Sad Kahyangan Temple in Bali (six big groups of Bali temples) and is situated in Pecatu Village, the sub-district of South Kuta, Badung Regency, about 25 km south of Denpasar.

Pura means temple while luhur is “something of divine origin”.

Uluwatu is actually two words combined into one; ulu is “land’s end” and watu means “rock” in the island’s old language.

The area is open to public, so it is not uncommon for its parking lot to be inundated by giant buses transporting tourists from all over the world. But they come not only for the temple but also for the stunning panorama and the to-die-for sunsets.

Dedicated to the spirits of the sea, the famous temple is an architectural marvel built with black coral rocks.

Built in the eleventh century during the era of Empu Kuturan, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is one of the oldest temples in Bali.

(Empu is a title denoting the person’s excellence in literature, philosophy and craftsmanship.)

Some five centuries later a priest, Dang Hyang Niraratha, rebuilt it to what you see today.

The temple is so sacred that up to the turn of the 20th century it is said that only the princes of Denpasar were allowed to worship there.

A word of caution: Monkeys, always on the lookout for a free bite, abound here, and warning signs remind visitors about their aggressiveness, which can manifest in their going after your sunglass or camera.

There are two ways to reach the temple; the first is taking the steep path along the cliff, while the second is to enter from the candi bentar (gate), festooned with carvings that have become the landmark of the island.

After going through an open central courtyard, you reach the main gate which has two ganeshas (elephant-headed guardian statues) one on each side.

On the left and right of the main gate are shrines, astasari (for festival offerings), a shrine dedicated to Dang Hyang Nirartha, and several other shrines, called bale tajuk, for spiritual guardians of Nirartha–all of them impressive in their own right.

Another but smaller courtyard is in store before you reach the three-tiered pagoda Meru, which is dedicated to Nirartha who, as legend has it, achieved self-enlightenment here.

Best time to visit the temple is during weekdays and before sunset time. This is when the place is tranquil, allowing you more time to explore what is considered to be one of Bali’s most important temples, and to contemplate.

It is also the time when you can watch dolphins and turtles in the sea.

The downside, of course, is that you will miss the sunset, which is actually just as beautiful elsewhere in Bali.

While you’re there, make time to visit the beach, considered to be one of Bali’s best surfing spots.

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Tanah Lot A Balinese Landmark

Text and Photos by Taufik Darusman

One of the most important must-visit places in Bali is Tanah Lot, a temple perched on a large offshore rock shaped relentessly over the years by the ocean tide.

Visitors gather in preparation to view the sunset at Tanah Lot.

Visitors to Tanah Lot in the afternoon get a double visual treat: a view of a temple built in the 15th century and a stunning sunset that leaves you breathless.

One of the most favorite tourism destinations in Bali, Tanah Lot also offers a magnificent view of the majestic Indian Ocean.

Tanah Lot means "Land in the Middle of the Sea" in Balinese, and lies in Tabanan, about 20 km from Denpasar.

The journey leading to Tanah Lot is a pleasant experience in itself; it allows you a glimpse of the island's rich and colorful hinterland with green rice fields on both sides of the road.

Tanah Lot has always been a part of Balinese mythology and is one of the seven sea temples around the Balinese coast, each set up within eyesight of the next to form a chain along the south-western coast. They are, among others, Batu Bolong Temple, Batumejan Temple and Enjung Galuh Temple.

In the 1980s the temple's rock started to crumble, rendering the surrounding area perilous to visitors. The Japanese government then provided a loan to conserve the time-honored temple and other beach locations around the island of Bali. As a result, over one third of the rock which can be seen is actually artificial.

The path leading to Tanah Lot is strictly business: loud and busy souvenir stalls on both sides of a lane leading towards the Indian Ocean, selling traditional handicraft and paintings and fake but credible-looking Starbucks and Hard Rock Café t-shirts.

On the sidelines are modest eateries that do well to quench your thirst with ice- cold local and imported beer.

Tanah Lot is also fast gaining a reputation as one of the best places around to host business meetings, seminars and conventions in executive class accommodations offering professional services.

It also boasts a golf course considered to be one of the world's top ten and world-renowned spas that blend the best of modern technology with the island's best-kept secrets in rejuvenating one's physical being.

Tanah Lot is said to be the brainchild of the 15th century wandering priest Nirartha. During his travels along the south coast he saw the rock-island's beautiful setting and became enamored of it.

As legend would have it Nirartha spent the night on the little island and in the course of time befriended local fishermen who helped him build a shrine on the rock. Nirartha felt he was amidst a holy place and went on to to worship the Balinese sea gods.

The main temple building serves as a place to worship the god Dewa Baruna or Bhatara Segara, the sea power, while another part is reserved for paying tribute to another god, Dang Hyang Nirartha.

On any given day Tanah Lot is a nice and windy place to stroll; a manicured park above the shrine allows you a panoramic view of what is certainly one of ‘the hottest' tourist spots in Bali.

The place is obviously packed with tourists, mostly Japanese who arrive in huge buses, middle-age Europeans and young Australian couples.

Indeed, the allure of Tanah Lot is such that it cuts across the wide spectrum of nationalities and age brackets.

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Finding Mola

Text and Photos by Meliana Salim

Nusa Penida is a diver's playground with numerous sites worthy of exploring and home to the rare Mola-Mola and Manta Rays.

The beauty of underwater Indonesia is virtually unmatched.

I shudder at the thought of hypothermia.

At a chilly 19° Celsius and 30 metres down, my three-millimetre wetsuit is no match for the brutal thermocline: the wild temperature variations as steep as 8° Celsius in the space of mere metres. I rub my arms vigorously in an attempt to maintain my body temperature. We are on a hunt. Photo hunt, that is.

"When I dive, I feel alive. Everything else is just a surface interval", said Dr. Phil Nuytten, a renowned Canadian ocean explorer.

A statement I can easily relate to. I am blessed, as I live in the highlands of Bali. For a scuba fanatic, it's a dream come true. I often feel the need to descend from the hills to answer the call of the ocean and lubricate my lungs. The beauty of living on a tropical island is that world-class dive spots are simply a phone call and an hour's drive away.

Divers from all over the world congregate in Bali between July and October to catch a hopeful glimpse of the migratory Ocean Sunfish, also known as Mola-Mola (from the Latin word for millstone, aptly used to describe their roundish figure). These magnificent creatures currently hold the record for the heaviest bony fish on earth; a 3.1-metre long specimen weighed in at 2,235 kg (Carwadine, 1995).

Mola-Mola spend much of their time at cold depth feeding on their favourite diet: jellyfish. Their coarse sandpapery skin is covered with up to 40 different genera of parasites. Occasionally they emerge from the deep to rejuvenate at cleaning stations where schools of bannerfish await, eager to offer parasite riddance services. And one of these cleaning stations is conveniently located at Bali's own Nusa Penida, a mere 40-minute boat ride from Sanur Beach.

Nusa Penida is the largest of three islands (Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan) lying off the southeast coast of Bali. This 17-kilometre long island is home to stunning corals and diverse marine life. It is a diver's playground with numerous dive sites worthy of exploring: Crystal Bay, Blue Corner, Bat Cave, SD, and Toyapakeh, to name a few. Besides hosting the Mola-Mola's seasonal migrations, Nusa Penida is also home to Manta Rays at Manta Point.

It is a gorgeous mid-July day at Crystal Bay – a signature dive site in Nusa Penida famed for the most consistent Mola sightings. The site isn't named 'Crystal Bay' for nothing; the waters are so clear it seems as if we're looking through a piece of glass. I'm accompanied by my dependable dive buddy, I Made Wirawan, the founder of Bali Marine Sports dive centre, who comes equipped with his natural ability to detect Mola-Mola from a great distance. Mola sightings are dependant on various dive conditions: weather, time of day and month, and dive traffic.

Made signals for me to follow him. We descend further and come to a halt at a sloping reef, facing the open ocean with bated breath. We have limited time to stick around at the risk of running low on air and facing decompression sickness. My heart is racing and I no longer feel the icy water. And there it is, a 3-metre wide Mola parking motionlessly. Six overzealous bannerfish are feasting on its parasite-infested spotty silver skin. The Mola seems to be at peace with this complimentary grooming ritual. It's a pretty bizarre-looking fish with a massive head, rounded tail, and long sweeping fins atop and below.

I maneuver myself carefully so as not to disrupt its spa session. According to several reports, the Mola also habitually rests flat at the surface of the ocean to sunbathe, hence the common name "ocean sunfish". A series of questions run through my head: Why do they choose to come to Bali? Where do they go from here? How do they reproduce? What are their roles in the marine environment? And how many are there left in this world?

Startled by a group of oncoming divers, it swiftly wakes up from an apparent trance. Its initial glide is smooth and graceful, but within seconds it speeds up and disappears into the abyss, leaving behind disappointed bubble-makers.

In mid-October last year I had the pleasure of meeting Dr. Tierney Thys, a passionate Californian marine biologist, a National Geographic Emerging Explorer and a filmmaker, during her workshop to the students of Green School, Bali's innovative answer to alternative education. She was on a mission to place satellite tags on the Mola and collecting tissue samples for genetic and toxin analysis in the hope of uncovering the secrets of these remarkable creatures.

Dubbed as 'the next generation's champion of ocean exploration' by National Geographic, Dr. Thys and her team have dedicated almost a decade travelling the world's ocean and studying the mysterious ways of the Mola. Despite their massive size, the Mola remains a creature of mystery; we still don't know much about their reproductive cycle, population, migratory route, and hunting habits.

"It's got these big eyes and a goofy look that draws you in to the ocean environment and sparks more questions", claimed Dr. Thys.

"We want to get people thinking about the ocean and not thinking that land is separate from the ocean but that it's a big continuum. We can't have healthy land with an unhealthy ocean."

It is easy to have a certain expectation of entitlement when you've come a long way to see the Mola, but keep in mind that the well-being of the marine life comes first. Go with a reputable dive company with safety-minded dive instructors, be prepared for strong unpredictable currents, and respect the sanctuary of the Mola.

One can't help but feel humbled in the presence of such evolutionary prehistoric creature. Human civilization is a mere drop in the ocean. Scuba divers and other ocean explorers have been given the privilege of witnessing some of Nature's most incredible masterpieces. We are stewards of the ocean and with this come a great responsibility to raise awareness and protect Earth's underwater inhabitants.

To learn more about Dr. Thys and her research or to adopt a Mola- Mola, please visit www.oceansunfish.org

Recommended Dive Centre:
Bali Marine Sports
Phone: (62-361) 270386, 289308, 288776
Email: bali4mola@yahoo.com
www.bmsdivebali.com

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Enchanting Ubud

text and image meliana salim

Walk along with Meliana Salim, as she shares with you a treasured collection of the moments and hidden secrets that make Ubud one of the most loved places in Bali.

Jacques Yves Cousteau once said that "when one man, for whatever reason, has the opportunity to lead an extraordinary life, he has no right to keep it to himself". Having spent two wonderful years in the heart of Ubud, I've had my fair share of defining moments, people, and places that make everyday living here truly extraordinary. Ubud is a constant magnet of incredibly fascinating and multifarious globetrotters. This is a compilation of 'Ubud Moments' lovingly put together with the generous recommendations from residents whose lives have been touched by our enchanting and enigmatic town: such is the magic of Ubud.
I believe when Bali was dubbed 'The Morning of the Earth' they were referring to the mornings in Ubud. The best way to experience the blissful dawns is by foot.

Book a guided three-hour herbal walk with Ni Wayan Lilir and I Made Westi (http://baliherbalwalk.com). This is complemented by an introductory knowledge to Bali's living pharmacy and herbal remedies growing by the wayside, and an insight on rice cultivation methods used by farmers. Lilir and Westi come from a family of healers and farmers who are keen to use their skills as guides to help preserve Bali's unique indigenous heritage.

Greet the morning sun with a pleasant trek up the Campuhan Ridge. Begin at the turn-off to Ibah Resort near the Campuhan Bridge and follow the signs that lead to a temple dating back to the eighth century, Pura Gunung Lebah. Walk along a hillside of elephant grass until you reach Bangkiang Sidem Village (which literally translates to 'the back of the black ant'). The beautiful walk is approximately three kilometres long and passes through rice paddies and deep ravines before winding back to the main road.

Stop by Kakiang Café on Jl. Raya Pengosekan for the best croissants, pastries, and chocolate truffles in town. This inconspicuous Japanese-owned bakery also serves the elusive Maccha Latte – a green tea latte packed with antioxidants. Regulars include a grumpy elderly gentleman with his faithful novel and breakfast guests from the nearby Kakiang Bungalows.

bali buddha café and bakeryPack a picnic breakfast from Ubud's beloved health café and bakery, Bali Buddha (www.balibuddha.com) and head to the Ubud Botanical Gardens in Kutuh Kaja. Meet German-born author and developer Stefan Reisner and "come to a standstill after thousands of miles of noisy travel" in five hectares of tropical beauty: trespass into nature, meander through a natural ravine, get lost in a maze and gaze at your reflections in lily and lotus ponds.

Indulge in a truly one-of-a-kind luxury treat: The Royal High Tea Picnic. Exquisitely planned by the lovely long-term Ubudian Anneke van Waesberghe, take a short walk into another world designed by Esprite Nomade, a luxury lifestyle concept company catering to the high-end hospitality industry. Step into a lavish Safari-style tent with floating silken panels, pop the champagne, and enjoy the footbath and massage in the midst of the jungle. It is luxury redefined. For reservations call 08123849924.

There's a never-ending array of lunch spots in town and it takes countless disappointing meals to finally narrow them down to a few worthy of mentioning.

bali buddha café and bakeryForget what you read and know and head to Laka-Leke Restaurant (www.lakaleke.com) in the quaint woodcarving village of Nyuh Kuning for the best crispy duck in Ubud. It is a true hideaway in every sense: dine in tree-shaded pavilions amongst lush gardens, lily ponds, and rice fields. A local favourite, Warung Mina, on the road leading to Maya Ubud Resort, offers fresh grilled gurame served with traditional sambals. Warung Nasi Ayam Kedewatan Ibu Mangku is dominated mostly by out-of-towners and domestic tourists. There's no need to ask for the menu as they serve only one dish: chicken rice. This is almost like a chicken version of the famed Ibu Oka's babi guling. Ask for mild spices if you don't want your makeup melting down your face. Another local hotspot is Warung Makan Teges located outside of Peliatan, in Teges Village. This traditional roadside warung serves both chicken and pork rice.

The Smile Shop (www.senyumbali.org) in Banjar Taman is Bali's first charity shop and is run by volunteers and staff of the Smile Foundation of Bali, a non-profit, independent organisation founded by Mary Northmore, with the mission of bringing health care to people with craniofacial disabilities. All items for sale at the shop are donated brand new or good-as-new. To volunteer your time in the Shop call Mary on 0811 295 963. To donate money or drop off goods, call Carrie on 0813 3848 7498. All proceeds go towards bringing health care to people with craniofacial disabilities.

Shop with a conscience at Threads of Life (www.threadsoflife.com) on Jl. Kajeng, a fair trade business dedicated to sustaining Indonesia's traditional textile arts. Founders Jean Howe and William Ingram aim to alleviate poverty in rural Indonesia through culture and conservation. Enroll in introductory workshops on the history and traditional use of Indonesian textiles, weaving and dyeing techniques, and the ancient art of batik and dyeing with fresh indigo.

Immerse yourself in arts and culture and explore your creativity with Suzan Kohlik from her charming Sari Api Studio on Jl Suweta. Choose from various ceramic workshops or custom-designed classes and learn to work with clay, by hand building, or wheel-throwing. Email Suzan at sariapi@indo.net.id or telephone her on 0361 977 917. Life model painting sessions are all the hype every Wednesday and Saturday at Pranoto's Art Gallery on Jl. Raya Ubud (www.age.jp/~pranoto/).

Run by the artist couple Pranoto and his Australian wife Kerry Pendergrast, this lively gallery hosts exhibitions and a large collection of paintings by Indonesian and international artists.

A recommended detour from Ubud is a visit to Horizon Glassworks Studio and Gallery at Jl. Raya Kengetan (www.horizonglassworks.com). Witness the passionate hot glass artist, Ron Seivertson, express his glassblowing, painting, and sculpting talents through this sensitive, beautiful medium.

Pay a visit to the magnificent studios of Bali's most famous sculptor I Wayan Winten at his studios in Teges Village. Winten is a highly respected cement artist whose claims to fame include the statue of Bima Dewa Ruci on Simpang Siur roundabout near Kuta and the forty metre tall Pandawa head in Solo's water park. His high-profile clients range from President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono to Martha Tilaar. If you're lucky he might just invite you to his nearby home to say hello to his lollipop-loving pet bat.

bustling jalan monkey forest Take a pause from your travels and hop into Ubud's charming independent booksellers. Meet friendly Thierry, the French owner of Rendezvous Doux on Jl. Raya Ubud, an international library and café boasting a collection of rare books and a daily screening of 1930s black-and-white movies of classic Bali. Trade your book in for a new read or donate it to Books for Bali Project at Ganesha Bookshop (www.ganeshabooksbali.com), an initiative that supports literacy and learning in the Balinese community. Located off the football field on Monkey Forest Road, Pondok Pekak Library is a classic oasis for more than 10,000 books and a creative, nurturing space for learning Bahasa Indonesia, Balinese dance, music and other art forms for children and the young-at-hearts.

A trip to Ubud is not complete without a visit to a spa. Nourish your body and soul at Spa (www.spahati.com), a blissful haven on Jl. Raya Andong whose operations help to generate income for Bali Hati Foundation (www.balihati.org) – a non-profit organisation that implements educational and social programmes in the Balinese community. If you are serious about your wellbeing, avoid the hyped-up, overbooked celebrity healers and start your personal wellness or healing programme with Dr. Sujatha Kekada at Amrtha Siddhi (www.amrthasiddhi.com), a no-nonsense Ayurvedic and yoga health centre. Dr. Kekada specialises in customised treatment and personalised yoga tuition as part of an overall treatment plan and healing progress of her patients.

For an intimate dining venue with an unpretentious atmosphere and superb modern Southeast Asian cuisine, head to the 'Kemiri' at Uma Ubud (www.uma.ubud.como.bz). Raw food genius Chris Miller, the Australian-born Chef, spoils guests with a refined, healthy gourmet menu featuring seasonal organically grown local ingredients in the Ikebuchi-designed, open-air space. Customise your own menu for private dinners-to-impress. The fabulous poolside bar has a cult-like following of young expatriates in Ubud. It is the place to see and be seen on New Year's Eve in the hills.

A true Ubudian would know that Thursday is tuna night at Ubud's favourite expatriate hangout, Naughty Nuri's Warung. Skip the ribs and order a tuna-themed dinner: tuna steak, tuna sashimi, and tuna satay. Come early and beat the busloads of tourists as dinner reservations are almost impossible on Thursdays. If you can't squeeze onto the bench, head down to nearby Nacho Mama's, Nuri's sister warung for the same great menu plus a selection of Mexican fare. Work off those Storm beer calories by signing up for a Saturday afternoon Bali Hash House Harriers run (www.balihashone.com).

Amandari (www.amanresorts.com/amandari/home.aspx) turns 20 this year. Its recent appointment of talented Executive Chef Christian Hinckley has brought an influx of foodies to the unassuming resort. Prior to Bali, Chef Christian has worked as a Sous Chef alongside the legendary "Chef of the Century" Joël Robuchon at The Mansion, a three Michelin star restaurant in Las Vegas. Keep an open mind and allow Chef Christian to entice you with his impeccable modern bistro cuisine and refreshing philosophy of "surprise and delight" at The Restaurant.

Gaya Gelato opened to rave reviews last July and has since gained a fast reputation for serving the best gelato on the island. This delightful gelateria is the brainchild of Massimo Boccedi: each scoop is lovingly prepared using the finest, freshest ingredients to stay true to its authentic Italian roots. A much-welcome addition to the Gaya Fusion family (www.gayafusion.com), it'll be almost impossible to decide on one flavour, so try them all. Don't miss Gaya's delectable Sunday Brunch and free art programme for children taught by top artists.

Spend a thought-provoking night out in the company of controversial documentaries and movies every alternate Monday at The Yoga Barn on Jl. Pengosekan. A notable mention is Gaya's screening of Tuesday evening art films in their spacious, minimalist gallery. Alternatively, challenge your brain on quiz night every Friday at Fly Café on Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Come well-prepared as they take it very, very seriously.

Learn to salsa every Monday and Friday night at eight pm at Indus Restaurant in Campuhan, where expatriates can be found dancing the night away to Latino music by Buenna Terra. There's also Open Mic Night at Flava Lounge on Jl. Pengosekan every Wednesday starting from eight pm. Participate in a lively jam session with an eclectic mix of local musicians, travellers, and the odd celebrity like Michael Franti thrown in for good measure.

woodcarvers at bedulu villageLate-night owls and glitterati rejoice at the addition of Mozaic Lounge (www.mozaic-bali.com) – its upscale art deco chic a little piece of Seminyak in this tranquil town. Tantalising tapas style teasers are accompanied by signature cocktails, cool lounge tunes, and sophisticated live jazz music every weekend.
A favourite pastime to start a lazy Saturday is visiting Ubud's own Farmer's market on the verandah of Pizza Bagus on Jl. Pengosekan. The market is held from nine-thirty until two o'clock every Saturday. Show your support for Bali's chemical-free farmers and small businesses by buying their organic produce.

There are endless tales of travellers falling in love with Bali on their first visit and consequently moving to Ubud. If you find yourself in this soul-searching and home-hunting situation, enjoy the ride and check out the postings on the local notice boards for inspiration. Some of the best in town are Kafé on Jl. Hanoman, Bali Buddha, Pizza Bagus (best place for free wi-fi), and Juice Ja Café on Jl. Dewi Sita (exchange your old DVDs while you are there).

What is it about Ubud that makes dreamers, thinkers, and wanderers from all over the world fall head over heels in love and call it home? The name 'Ubud' originates from an ancient Javanese word 'Ubad' which literally means 'medicine'. Ubud is indeed the medicine to life: it is a place to eat, pray, love, and heal. Open your heart and mind and immerse yourself in everything that Ubud has to offer.

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Uluwatu the most famous wave of Bali

Uluwatu is the most famous wave of Bali. There is always some swell here so it's also always crowded. The spot offers several waves which are working with different swells and tides:

The Peak: best at mid and high tide. Closes out at low tide. In front of the cave. it's the most consistant. Short and powerful waves, tubes. The take off is moving. It works from 1ft to 8ft. The most crowded. One of the sections closes more than the others.

Racetracks: 100 meters further. fast wave, a lot of sections with easy tubes. Best at low tide and at 6ft. Can hold bigger swell. On the right tide and the right swell, "The Peak" connects with "Racetraks" (you need to be a good tuberider). Over 10ft, Racetracks breaks until "The Corner".
Photo:www.baliwaves.com

Inside Corner: best at mid and low tide with a 6ft swell. At first, it's a fun wave and the final bowl is a tube. Don't do a cutback just before the bowl! Take plenty of speed, stay high in the face and trim. You will pass the tube.

Outside Corner: the REAL Uluwatu. Works only with big swells (>8ft) and at low tide. The lower is the tide, the better is the wave. Take at least a 7' board. It is a succession of long walls good for carving and, sometimes, a beautiful final tube. The length is around 300 meters.

Temple: less surfed. 2 waves in fact ("Outside temple" and "The Bombies"). Only for experts because the water is very shallow. For thoses,it is a incredible tube when it works.

Spot information for surfing at Uluwatu (globalsurfer.com):

• Type of break: reef break
• Type of wave: hollow barreling wave
• Direction: left hand
  
• Bottom: coral
  
• Average lenght of ride: long
• Suitable for : expert level
  

Detailed information:

• Crowd level: a big crowd
• Best tide: mid
• Ideal board size: 6'8-7'4 Mini gun
• Ideal wind direction: south-east
  

Wavesize & wetsuit:

• Spring - Summer - Autumn - Winter Overhead: 6'- 8' - Ok : 2'- 4' - Overhead: 6'- 8' - Overhead: 6'- 8' Boardshorts - Boardshorts - Boardshorts - Boardshorts
  

Getting There

To reach Uluwatu from The Ngurah Ray International Airport by using Taxi, rent car/motorcycle or using travel agent. Its about 1 hour drive.

Where to Stay

There are many accommodations from Warung (warung in a traditional caf), motels, hotels until Villa. The range price in $5 until $ 2000 for 1 day. If you stay in warung you just pay for the meals.

Moving Around
Photo:www.baliwaves.com

There are many surfing spot near Uluwatu such as: Padang-padang beach, Dreamland beach, Bingin beach, Impossible beach.

Dining Guide

Various restaurants and cafes throughout Uluwatu, from cheeps price to a luxury restaurant.

Souvenir Tips

Sea-related products, such as items made of seashells, corals and t-shirt, etc.

Other Things to See or Do

There is Temple near the beach, its one of the best temple in Bali called Uluwatu Temple. In the Temple you can see a lot of attractions such as:Watching traditional Bali dace performance, Watching Sunset (very good view from Uluwatu Tample).


Travel Tips

• A good hat and water-proof sun-screen.
• Basic first-aid kit, antiseptic dressing, etc.
• Sand-shoes and thongs.
• Board-shorts, t-shirts, 1 pair light-weight, long-pants and long-sleeve wind cheater.
• Two towels and sun-glasses.
• Personal toiletries, after-sun cream, insect repellent.
• Walkman, camera, handy-cam and books.
• Booties, 2 surf-boards.
• Light-weight wet-suits, rash-vest, gate helmet and spare leg-ropes.

Sources

• Baliwaves- www.baliwaves.com
• Surfing Indonesia, periplus action guide.
• Global Surfer- www.globalsurfers.com

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