Spices and Maluku - two inseparable things. And so are Ternate-Tidore in world history. Five centuries ago, the two big sultanates in the eastern part of our country emerged onto the stage of world history. They were sought after, and even fought over. The existence of the spice islands - the islands
of Maluku, especially Ternate-Tidore as clove producers, and the Banda Islands as nutmeg producers - motivated people to travel right around the world for the first time.
History records that Christopher Columbus, who discovered the North American continent, made his voyage in
order to find spices, the actual location of which was a mystery to Europeans at that time. The desire to control these premier commodities, whose status then resembled what oil’s is nowadays, was indeed very strong. And Ternate-Tidore were the world’s only producers of clove - the most sought after spice of them all.
The Origin of Cloves and the Arena of World Politics
All cloves on the planet came from here. A long ti
me ago, trading them was under the control of the Sultans of Ternate and Tidore, two kingdoms sitting on two adjacent islands and, so the story goes, they were the most highly respected in eastern Indonesia at the time.
Ferdinand Magellan was sent by Charles I, King of Spain, to find spice islands. His fleet arrived from the east but was a bit too far north in the Philippines, which later went on to become a Spanish colony. Magellan himself died there, but his remaining fleet, Trinidad and Victoria, finally arrived in Tidore on 8th November 1521. The Spanish, followed by the British, the Dutch and others, also reached Ternate-Tidore. The Golden Hind, Sir Francis Drake’s legendary ship from Britain, for example, docked at Ternate in
1579, and Cornelis de Houtman from the Netherlands came in around 1596. Ternate–Tidore then moved onto the world geopolitical stage.
A Visit to the Palace
Five hundred years have passed. Spices are no longer the world’s most precious commodities. The two big sultanates have now been incorporated into the Province of North Maluku together with the islands of Halmahera, Morotai, Bacan and others. Ternate has become its capital and at the same time Maluku’s second biggest city. Its economy is alive and well, mark
ed by the bustle of its inhabitants and the heavy traffic of motorised vehicles and public transport.
The Sultan of Ternate’s yellow Grand Palace sits on higher ground in the city centre, not far from the seaside. Behind it the Mountain of Gamalama stand no less grandly. There is speculation as to whether Sultan Baabullah (1570-1583) governed one of the strongest kingdoms in Nusantara from here, controlling the trade of cloves which spiced up royal feasts back in the castles of Europe. The greatness of Baabullah was widely recognised; he was in 1574 one of the few Nusantara kings - or perhaps even the only one - to succesfully drive the Portuguese colonists away.
The palace is now a museum. However, you should know that it was built at the end of the 19th century. So it is not the origin
al building.
Tracing History’s Footsteps
On these two islands, neith
er of which is wider than 12 km, stand several fortresses that witnessed the world’s history unfold. A bit to the north of the palace, in Ter
nate city centre, is Fort Oranje whose construction was completed in around 1607. It was the first centre for the Dutch East Indies government in Nusantara. Not many people know that Ternate was once a Dutch colonial capital. The fortress is relatively big compared to other fortresses in our country.
To the north of the city there is Fort Toloko standing on a hill. This Portuguese built fortress is very well maintained and looks like it has been renovated
. From on top of it, Ternate is in full view, as is the Island of Tidore across the water from it.
Still in the city, but a bit to the south, stands the Kayu Merah Fortress built by the Portuguese in 1510. This fortress with its strong thick walls is the only one remaining on the water’s edge and looks like it is keeping watch over the sea in front of it.
To the west there is another quite small but beautiful fortress called Fort Nostra Senhora do Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary), or Fort Gamalama as it is commonly referred to as. This fortress was perhaps built by the Portuguese as well. It is now in ruins and not on the seaside anymore but what remains still looks quite stunning.
The Twin Island
Tidore, Ternate’s “twin” island, although separated only by a one kilometre wide strait, turns out to be quiet and peaceful. Crossing the water to Tidore, we are welcomed by a simple but very important inscription which commemorates the arrival of the Trinidad and Victoria on 8 November 1521, having sailed for 2 years, 2 months and 28 days from Seville, on their epic voyage around the world seeking spices. Trinidad then sank on her way home, leaving Victoria to return to Seville as the first ship to have sucessfully sailed the proverbial Seven Seas.
The inscription is signed by the Spanish Ambassador to Indonesia. If, from the story above, it is clear that Ternate is “Portugese”, then Tidore is indeed “Spanish”. Another proof of Tidore’s “Spanishness” is the Tohula Fort above Soa Siu.
A day trip to Tidore from Ternate is possible because it is quite close, just a few minutes in a wooden boat. On this island stands the palace of the Sultanate of Tidore. If Ternate has Baabullah, Tidore has Nuku, her most well known ruler.
If Ternate has Gunung Gamalama, her twin island has Gunung Kiematubu. A stretch of fairly smooth asphalt road will take us to that traditonal villa
ge to see how Tidore’s native people live.
The Scene on the One Thousand Rupiah Banknote
Do you have a one thousand rupiah bank note? Please have a look at what is written there. “Pulau Maitara dan Tidore”, that’s the description there. It is a real depiction of Ternate. Do you want to see for yourself the scene pictured on the banknote? Easy. Go to the south of Ternate. It is not difficult to get there and only about 10 minutes from the city. The view is indeed fantastic.
Apart from being chock full of history, North Maluku is beautiful. The islands there are like miniature volcanoes rising up out of the sea, creating a landscape that might be from a fairy story.
Travelling here will not only bring you back to the golden age of spices but will also give you unforgettable memories. And don’t forget to sample their fresh sea fish with the renowned sambal dabu-dabu or their specialty sago snack.
Getting to Ternate
Garuda Indonesia flies The Jakarta-Manado-Ternate vv route 7 times per week
Source : Garuda Indonesia Magazine
